At some point in the spring of 2019 I watched an episode of the Netflix series “Street Food” centered on Osaka and the story of Toyo and his izakaya. I was transfixed by all of the food featured on that show, but the memory of Toyo’s tiny, open air bar stuck in my mind. I immediately wanted to visit it. Fast forward to June, and when I was planning my big trip for the year, the izakaya, Toyo himself, and the amazing food wouldn’t leave my mind. I ended up buying plane tickets to Japan and planned to fly home out of Osaka so I could visit Izakaya Toyo.

Sometimes the ideas of things surpass their reality. But not in this case. On my last day in Osaka, knowing how popular this little bar is, I walked past more than an hour before opening and gave Toyo a wave that he returned before returning to preparing his humble restaurant.

I wandered around the Kyobashi district in which the izakaya was located and returned about 45 minutes before its opening. Even at that early hour, I was eighth in line. Secure in the knowledge that I would have a place at the bar as they opened, I relaxed into some people watching of the groups joining in line behind me.

As the bar opened, I was led to a table and handed a menu. The people I was sharing this section of the bar with were so frequently here to eat that they got their dishes before I had even begun to peruse the menu.

I’ve been really lucky to have eaten some amazing meals around the world. Just on this single trip to Japan I had meal after meal that was amazing. Maybe it is recency bias, but this meal put forth by Toyo was hands down my favourite of my trip, and my favourite going back over many, many years of travel.

Why? First off, just look at what I got. On the left, a dish of scallops and crab topped with scallions. On the right, a combo of fatty tuna, roe and uni-covered sushi rolls. All washed down with a couple of gigantic, icy bottles of Asahi beer.

This meal included the single best thing I tasted all of 2019 – this roe was bursting with flavour. Each bite of the firm eggs sent rockets of salty, juicy deliciousness into every corner of my mouth. It was simply an amazing taste experience unlike any I’ve had before.

What made the experience so special was Toyo himself. This is his personal bar that he’s had for 26 years. Now well into his later years, he has the energy and enthusiasm of an eight year old hopped up on Halloween candy. Watching his antics cooking up a storm brought a smile to my face.

He puts on a show for everyone, cooking oysters with a blow torch, laughing, gesturing and making merry with everyone at the bar.

As I was polishing off my beer and the last bites, I thought to myself… “I think I’m in the happiest place on earth right now”. My fellow diners from around the world and around the neighborhood were all smiling and laughing. We were enjoying amazing food outside on a beautiful day, and we were doing it in the company of Toyo, a man who takes great pride in his izakaya.

My trip to Japan was filled with a parade of amazing experiences, but none topped this meal on my last day in Osaka. That Toyo shared a few moments with me was a perfect end to as close to a perfect meal as I have had.