Beer experiences in Prague

Drinking beer in Prague is a true pleasure.  Great beer is everywhere; you don’t have to seek it out.  Over the course of two weeks I didn’t have a single bad beer or ever spend more than $2 Canadian for a beer in a bar.    These are a few of my favourite beer-related experiences in Prague – the bars, the delicious traditional Czech snacks, and of course, the beers themselves.

First beer in Prague:  After getting settled into our apartment on the first day, we made our way for a much needed meal at Svejk Restaurant U Karla.  We picked this location for the ease of gluten-free eating for my wife for the first night.  A few minutes after sitting down, I got acquainted with my first Pilsner Urquell:

First beer in Prague

What went well with my second beer in Prague?  My first pork knee.  Czechs know how to eat:

Pork knee

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Pilgrimage to Plzen

You won’t see a description for a day trip to Plzen in your Frommers guide to the Czech Republic, and that’s a bloody shame.  For the beer lover, I would argue it’s almost a necessary visit.  This quaint city gave birth to beautiful thing in 1842: a beer that has stood the test of time – pilsner.

For me, the day trip to Plzen this was a true pilgrimage.  There was no way I was coming to the Czech Republic without visiting where my favourite style of beer was created.   Only a short 90 minute train ride from Prague, the Pilsner Urquell brewery is located just outside of the city centre.  When you arrive, you are greeted by the original gates of the brewery:

Gate at Pilsner Urquell

On our way into the brewery we got to see a morning delivery loading up.  Each day, the brewery delivers beer to bars in the city by horse, keeping alive a long-standing tradition.  I momentarily thought about taking the reins and making away with a few kegs of the good stuff:

Pilsner Urquell delivery into town Continue reading

This year’s big trip

I’ve been fortunate over the past few years to visit a number of interesting places. Many of those have been short stay, primarily work-related trips.  But by tacking on a day or two of vacation I’ve been able to see some interesting things and have some wonderful experiences that I cherish.  With that said, there’s nothing that compares to a “big trip”.  For us, that’s usually a once a year thing when our work and vacation schedules can be aligned for a two week escape.  Last year it was a four country tour of Scandinavia, the year before had us wandering around Switzerland and down to Milan.  This year our big trip is a two week jaunt to the Czech Republic with an ambitious 40 hour side trip to Vienna thrown in because we’ll be “in the neighbourhood”.

The Czech Republic has been high on our must visit list for a while.  We’ve rented an apartment in Prague for two weeks and will be exploring the city at a leisurely pace.  What’s on our itinerary?  A couple of day trips –  one to Terezín to learn about its horrific history during WWII, another one (perhaps more of a pilgrimage for me) to Plzeň, the birthplace of pilsner beer.  An AC Sparta Praha soccer match gets us to our first game after all our previous trips failed to align with European soccer schedules.  There’s a night at the opera, some castles, a few museums, and a lot of leisurely exploring, hanging out in parks and cafes, and drinking in what will be spectacularly beautiful surroundings.

Our last couple of big trips were less about food and drink than normal.  This one will be very different.  I’m excited to try some traditional Czech cuisine – in particular, pork knee, roast goose, goulash, dumplings and the pungent domestic cheese, Olomoucké tvarůžky.    As a beer lover, my travel map is littered with pins for hopeful visits to many tankovna pubs so I can sample the finest Czech beer at its unpasteurized and unfiltered best.  In Vienna I hope to try some of the world’s best coffee, have a piece (or 3) of sachertorte, and spend an evening at a heuriger on the outskirts of the city sampling the young, fresh white wines produced on the hills of the Danube.

Here’s to this year’s big trip which can’t get here fast enough!

An unexpected craft beer bar

Among the things I look for when visiting any city is a craft beer bar.  When I pulled up Google for Old San Juan, I really wasn’t expecting to find much.  Puerto Rico is rum country and their national beer is a pretty standard Caribbean thirst quencher with little to distinguish it.  Imagine my surprise and delight to learn about La Taberna Lupulo, a craft beer bar located about three blocks from my hotel in Old San Juan.

On a lazy Saturday afternoon with the temperatures hitting about 35°C it was time for a pint or two.  Pulling up a stool at the bar, my first selection was a witbier – Lost Coast Great White from California.  Delicious and refreshing on such a hot day:

Lost Coast Great White witbier

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My kind of Alibi

I have a soft spot for beer bars.  I’ve been to a few really great ones recently – Bar Volo and the Rebel House in Toronto, Elysian Fields in Seattle, Wynkoop in Denver and La Taberna Lúpulo in San Juan to name but a few.  So when plans for Vancouver came together, I got a lot of recommendations that the Alibi Room was not to be missed.

What great recommendations.

We sat down and I was presented with a two page menu of beer on tap.  The selection was overwhelming (and exciting!).  Knowing I was going to be sampling a few beers, I started by selecting the Phillips Brewing Wheatking Hefeweizen and Upright Brewing Engelberg Pilsner.  Both wonderful, it was a great start to a sampling session:

Me with my first two samples Continue reading

Denver, delicious

The last word on my recent trip to Denver will be all about the food.  I spent remarkably little money for some truly delicious eats.  Here are a few of the highlights…

Euclid Hall – On a recommendation from a colleague, I headed here for dinner the first night and had what was probably the most unique of the dishes I sampled on my trip – a green chile and pork cheek poutine.  It was a perfect blend of sweet, hot and salty:

Euclid Hall Continue reading