Favourite travel experiences of 2015

Another year has passed, and I again feel fortunate to have watched a great deal of the world pass below me out an airplane window on journeys east and west of Halifax.  After a stretch of years traveling where food wasn’t as much of a focus, for a second year in a row, many of my favourite travel experiences have to do with food and drink or have a meal as a focal point to a memorable moment.  The other unifying theme this year was “quiet” with many of my favourite experiences being unexpected, subtle, or reflective in nature.  After time spent in British Columbia, Southern California, Mexico, Texas and Spain, here are my favourite travel experiences from 2015.

1. Tapas with my wife in Madrid – Thinking this would be a more difficult trip for my wife to enjoy the food culture of Spain (as she must eat a strict gluten-free diet on account of Celiac disease), we were both blown away by Taberna la Concha in the La Latina neighbourhood near our rented apartment.  The dedicated gluten-free menu and the quality of the food gave my wife an authentic Spanish experience.  It was so good, we went back another night and had a second amazing experience.  To see her face light up on those two nights (like mine was for the other nights of the trip) was a great thing to see.

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Texas through tacos and barbecue

I have a confession to make.  Nearing the end of a week in Texas spent sampling some really good craft beer and eating almost solely at barbecue and taco joints, I thought about ordering a salad.   Luckily, I didn’t follow through on that crazy idea until I got back home.

On my first day in Houston, after taking in an exciting Astros game, a short walk got me to Jackson Street BBQ.  It was almost next door to the ballpark, and even if I tried to get lost, my nose would have been able to follow the smell of smoky meat right to their front door.  My first Texas barbecue experience was delicious as I tried the sampler plate with sausage, ribs and brisket, a side of beans, and an Oktoberfest ale from Saint Arnold Brewing:

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A week of tacos

I have written many times about my love of really good tacos, so it will come as no surprise that before leaving for San Diego I had a long list of taco places I wanted to visit.  In particular, I wanted to try what might be the official food of San Diego, the fish taco.  So, wasting no time, on our first night in the city my wife and I made our way to the downtown location of Puesto, a restaurant that consistently wins the “best fish taco” award in a couple of San Diego’s alternative weekly papers.

Another great thing about Puesto, and really all of the taco joints we would hit, is they offered great gluten free selections for my wife.  Unfortunately, no Baja fish tacos (they’re normally breaded and fried), but she didn’t mind as she enjoyed (and happily shared!) her plate of chicken verde, carnitas and vegetable tacos (picture on the left).   That drink in that picture was a mango margarita and hands down the best drink of the entire trip.   My fish tacos (picture on the right) were incredible.  The fish was perfectly fresh cod, battered using blood orange beer and topped with cabbage, chile cream, avocado and tomatillo roja.   One night in, and I would have agreed to live in San Diego just to keep eating these tacos.

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Crossing the border

First things first – dispel what you’ve likely heard about Tijuana.  It’s true that it is a city that saw a remarkable amount of horrific violence in its not too distant past.   It’s also true that it can be a clichéd day trip location to drink bad tequila, buy some trinkets and pose for pictures wearing a sombrero.  But there’s a lot more to Tijuana than the shadow of its history and what can be found in its overly touristy areas.

When I found out I’d be traveling to San Diego, I wanted to visit Tijuana as I find it hard to be so close to an international border and not pop over for a look.   I’m also intrigued by Mexican culture and food and couldn’t pass up the opportunity for even a brief taste, both literally and figuratively.  As I read more about Mexico’s fifth largest city the pull became too strong to resist.  I found an incredible local guide, Derrik, from Turista Libre, and my wife and I committed to a day trip as part of our week on the west coast.

We took a morning train south from San Diego, met our guide and walked across the border into Mexico.  No document checks, no wait… we just swung through a few turnstiles guarded by some folks with impressive looking guns strapped across their backs and presto, we were in Mexico.   Our day had a loose plan of a market visit, spending some time on a beach, a bit of touring the city and a meal of tacos.  Had I known how good those tacos were going to be, I might have considered just heading there straightaway.

Stop one was the Mercado Hidalgo, the largest market in Tijuana.  After a quick stop for a taste of traditional Mexican coffee simmering in a pot on the stove, we entered the market and were most enthused by the food vendors.  We walked past mounds of moles (my mind was spinning with what I could do with these):

Moles Tijuana market

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A meal with a view

When I pulled into Sooke, BC, toward the end of my day long road trip around Vancouver Island, I knew I was in for something special.   Down the hill from the main road through the town and perched just above the Strait of Juan de Fuca is the Sooke Harbour House.   This award winning restaurant and hotel has long been on my bucket list, and when I knew I was going to be in British Columbia this past April, I arranged my plans around dining here, going so far as to make a reservation four months in advance.

I arrived a bit early for my reservation so I could wander around their picturesque property.   After living through a winter unlike any before, it took some head shaking to realize I was standing in a fully in bloom garden in April.

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Last day in Rome

I always end up feeling a bit nostalgic on the last day of any long trip.   Maybe a bit bittersweet as well.   That lends itself to laid back, slower and somewhat indulgent experiences the day before I hop on a long flight back home.  On our last day in Italy, we made our way back to Rome as that’s where we were flying out of the next morning.   After dropping our bags at the hotel, we had simple, relaxed plans for the last day – wander around the Villa Borghese park and have a couple of nice meals.

With deep appreciation to the travel weather gods, we had another beautiful day to explore.  This one with a few clouds, but warm and not a drop of rain, making it a full two weeks without rain on this trip.   Villa Borghese is a massive city park in the heart of Rome and is a lovely escape from the noise and bustle of the city that surrounds it.   On this fall day, there were times we felt like we had the park almost to ourselves.

Villa Borghese

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Delicious (and gluten free) Sorrento

After being in bustling Rome and Naples, spending five nights in Sorrento was like a vacation within a vacation.   Even with the day trips we were taking, the pace of life slowed down significantly, especially in the evenings once we returned back to Sorrento.   And evenings in Sorrento meant dinner and wine in Sorrento.  On a couple of those evenings, we decided on a picnic like meal in the inner courtyard garden of our apartment, just off Piazza Sant’Antonino.  Not a bad place for a meal!

Apartment courtyard in Sorrento

On Canadian Thanksgiving evening, we stopped by the grocery store and picked up a nice spread of smoked cheeses, some cured meats, gluten free cookies, bread (for me), paprika chips (a European tradition for us) and a bottle of prosecco.   We’ve now had a few of these al fresco Thanksgiving dinners in Europe over the years.  There’s something special about eating under the stars…

Thanksgiving in Sorrento

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Favourite travel experiences of 2014

As each year draws to a close, I like to think back on my travels and distill down my favourite memories and experiences.  It’s part simple reflection and an exercise in gratefulness for the past year.  It also helps to plan future trips as I continue to learn about what makes me happy and what I cherish in experiences.  As I was doing so this year, it became pretty evident that many of my favourite travel memories this year ended up revolving around food, wine and drink.   In no particular order, here are my ten favourite travel related experiences from 2014:

1. Drinking on the roof of a church – And not just any church… I shared a couple of shots of liquor on top of St. Peter’s Bascilica in Rome with six German women.  Better than the liquor were the laughs shared and the feeling of cheating a lightening bolt for such behaviour.

Enjoying a drink on top of St. Peter's

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Naples in 24 hours: The pizzas

A mere twenty four hours in Naples, Italy…  This brief stopover on our way from Rome to Sorrento existed for a couple of reasons – to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum in advance of visiting Pompeii a few days later, and for me to try as many pizzas as I could.  I’m proud to say I managed to squeeze in four delicious pizzas, even if for one of them it meant creating a rarely used meal between lunch and dinner.

The first pizza of the visit was a proper street lunch at what many believe to be the world’s first ever pizzeria, Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba.  Back in the mid 1700s this restaurant replaced street food stands and brought their wood fired pizzas out to the street to sell.   Here I am taking my first bite of a Neapolitan pizza:

First taste of Naples pizza from Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba

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Pasta on my mind

Without firm dinner plans on our third night in Rome, we looked at a list of interesting restaurants we had compiled that were nearby in the Monti neighbourhood, our home away from home for four nights.  With the help of our hotel staff, we booked 8:30pm reservations, unaware of the deliciousness that was ahead.  Who knew that the most delicious pasta in the world would be mere steps around the corner from our hotel in Rome?

La Carbonara was definitely a locals place.  A few visitors like us had found our way here, but there were a lot of regulars jammed in around us ordering without menus.  Everyone was ordering the pasta and as plate after plate went past to other tables there was no doubt I would be indulging in a pasta course on this night.  With a “when in Rome” mentality, we ordered a bottle of local Lazio wine (Santa Felicita, Cesanese del Piglio 2011).  It was a robust and rustic red… a little rough around the edges until it opened up a bit.  It ended up fitting perfectly with both the food and the ambiance of the restaurant.

Lazio wine

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