Memories of Montreal

Eleven years was far too long.

I had forgotten how much I love Montreal.  It is a city with which I have a thirty five year history, going back to some of my earliest childhood memories.  At worst, I’d find myself in Montreal every few years until this recent prolonged absence since the summer of 2005.  Since then, I’ve been traveling a lot, but focused on seeing new places. I inadvertently left Montreal behind for more than a decade.

On my long overdue visit, I got a rare opportunity to see Montreal through fresh eyes. Eyes that have seen some of the world’s great cities – Rome, Milan, Zurich, San Fransisco, Stockholm, Paris, Vienna, Prague.  Landing in Montreal a more seasoned traveler it immediately hit me – Montreal is a truly great, world class city.

It is said absence makes the heart grow fonder, and of that, I am certain.  Absence also makes you reminisce.   Over my four days in Montreal, I kept coming back to my memories in the city.  Like in the early eighties, me as a child on my first trips with my Dad, and chasing pigeons in Square Dorchester.  Standing here on a quiet morning thirty plus years later, I could almost hear my youthful laughter and the sound of pigeons taking flight en masse.

Square Dorchester

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Two churches in Seville

I’m not a religious person, but whenever I travel in Europe, I am always drawn to visiting churches.  Many times the social centres of cities are clustered around their most famous churches and religious sites, so it is hard to miss them.  And from an architectural standpoint, they usually form some of the most beautiful and picturesque locations.  In Seville, Spain, this was certainly the case.

The Seville Cathedral is the third largest church in the world, only behind St. Peter’s in Rome and the Basílica do Santuário Nacional de Nossa Senhora Aparecida in Aparecida, Brazil.    It is the largest Cathedral in the world as the other two are not the seats of bishops.   Size aside, it is striking from an architectural perspective inside and out.

Seville Cathedral

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Day trip to Córdoba

I have a bit of a compulsion to include a few day trips on any of the longer trips I take.  If I’m within a two hour train ride of somewhere interesting, I always feel a pull to loop in one extra place or one more location to explore.  On our trip to Spain last fall, we had all kinds of options for day trips out of both Madrid and Seville.  Consciously, we decided to ease up on the day trips so we could kick back a bit more than on previous trips.  For me, there was one day trip that couldn’t be sacrificed – a visit to Córdoba while we were staying in Seville.

The pull to Córdoba was to visit the Mezquita – the religious site that has switched back and forth over the last 1300 years from a Catholic basilica, to a half mosque half basilica, to a full mosque and now to a Roman Catholic church. A straightforward morning train ride from Seville had us in beautiful Córdoba in under an hour.  We made our way to the Mezquita as our first stop and entered the Patio de los Naranjos, the inner courtyard of the site.

Inner courtyard of the Mezquita

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First days in the new hometown

I stepped off the plane in Saskatoon a little over a week ago, dragged two full suitcases to a taxi, and about fifteen minutes later (the proximity of the airport to downtown is a major plus compared to Halifax!) I was in my temporary apartment and unpacking.  My first days included the mundane details of setting up a life in a new city, but I also set aside a fair chunk of time for some exploring before I started my new job.

First things first – Saskatoon is a very picturesque city.  Those trails along the river will be seeing a lot of me:

Saskatoon skyline

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La Giralda: Seville from above

Seville is a stunningly beautiful city.  From the ground, especially in the Santa Cruz barrio, the tangle of streets and narrow lanes going in all directions makes for visual drama the likes of which I haven’t seen on my travels to date.  All those tight streets, though protection against the searing heat of southern Spanish summers, can leave you with a closed in perspective on the city.  To get above it, for a wider lens view of Seville, you have two primary choices – the Metropol Parasol, and for my money, the superior views from La Giralda, the bell tower of the Seville Cathedral.

After touring the cathedral on an on and off rainy afternoon, we scaled the tower just as some ominous clouds were approaching the city.  From about half way up the tower we could see there were only a few minutes until another downpour:

View from La Giralda, Seville

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Living off tapas in Seville

In my perfect universe, every meal would be tapas style.  Small dishes, lots of sampling and experimenting, sharing – these form my idea of how to eat.  I’ve already written about a week’s worth of eating in Madrid where every single meal we had outside of our apartment was tapas style.  Well, we continued that trend for our time in Seville too.

On our third night in Seville, we started the night at Bar Alfalfa.  It’s a compact place with the noise of conversations filling the high, arching ceilings.  We were lucky to find a table along the windows on a rainy night.  The draw for us here was their gluten-free friendliness allowing my wife a few more ordering options than at other places.  That alone would put a smile on her face, but on this night, a man at the bar with his pet bird on his shoulder made her, and everyone smile:

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Slowly becoming Sevillanos

Being in Spain last fall was a lesson in slowing down. Seville in particular was the perfect backdrop for a slower paced vacation. So while we made the rounds in Seville – a soccer match, some flamenco, the Plaza de Toros and the Metropol Parasol to name a few – a lot of my favourite memories are from fairly pedestrian activities and from just savouring being in Seville.

On our first night in the city, after leaving a flamenco show, we swung by our apartment, picked up some drinks and snacks, and headed for the Plaza del Salvador.

Iglesia del Salvador

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Late night soccer in Seville

When you think of Spain it doesn’t take too long going down the list of cultural touchstones until you reach the beautiful game.. fútbol.  So while I would want to go to a match simply for the pure enjoyment of watching the sport, I also wanted to experience this important Spanish slice of life while I was in Seville.

The city has two teams – FC Sevilla, the more accomplished and decorated side, and Real Betis, the city’s “second” team that has struggled throughout its history.  Real Betis is known to have some of the most loyal supporters in Spain, even drawing huge crowds when they bounce down to the country’s second division, a place they were as recently as the previous season.  But this year, they ascended back into La Liga, and on a Saturday night in October, were taking on RCD Espanyol.  With a little help from our Airbnb host back in Madrid, we obtained tickets for the match, and were among the first people through the gates when they opened at the Estadio Benito Villamarín.

Inside Estadio Benito Villamarín in Seville

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