Back to Philadelphia

Philadelphia is the place I’ve traveled to more than anywhere else aside from Toronto.  The combination of previously working for a company based just outside Philly, my irrational love of the Eagles and a strange confluence of conferences in Philadelphia has me traveling there again at the end of this month.  I never get tired of going back.  In fact, I love it so much, I’m adding the better part of two days onto the start of the work part of the trip for some vacation.

Philadelphia a truly great city.  It’s a bit blue collar.  It has an underdog complex.  It is as far from pretentious as a city could be.  It’s honest, a bit gritty and doesn’t take itself too seriously.  If Philadelphia was a person, it would be that neighbour who helps you build a deck, loans you a few bucks to get you out of trouble without asking any questions, and calls you on it when you’re being an idiot.  Anthony Bourdain might have best summed it up about Philly when he said that it’s a “city with a low tolerance for bulls**t and plenty of heart.”

What do I have planned for this trip?  A Flyers game, a foodie visit to South Philly, touring and photographing some public art, at least one cheesesteak (who’s kidding who – it’ll be more than that), a long overdue trip to the Philadelphia Museum of Art and/or the Mutter Museum, watching my Eagles in a sports bar (shame they’re playing on the road that week), a stop at my favourite Philly beer store to stock up on some Yuengling to bring home, and as much more fun as I can squeeze around the work parts of the visit.  I know that by the time I get home, I’ll have eaten well, enjoyed some great laughs and have debated the Eagles offensive approach with whoever ends up sitting on bar stools next to me over the six days.  Such is Philadelphia.  Simple.  Honest.  Fun.  And with an endearing chip on its shoulder.   No wonder I love the city so much.

30 hours in Vienna: Monday

After a great first 12 waking hours in Vienna, we were ready for a mere 10 more hours in this stunning city.  Nowhere near enough time to see everything, but more than enough time to put a dent in it and have some fun in the process.

08:30 We started the day with some traditional Viennese pastries for breakfast.  We chose Kurkonditorei Oberlaa as our destination as they have something rather unique in Vienna – gluten free pastries.   My wife was in heaven as she didn’t expect to be able to try any of these delectables.  The gluten free pastries (left and top right in the pictures below) were really good.  In particular, the one on the left below was very similar to a Québécois mille-feuille.  I got one non gluten-free pastry as I had to try an apfelstrudel (bottom right below).  That and a great espresso put me in a wonderful mood to start the day.

Continue reading

30 hours in Vienna: Sunday

Nothing focuses your energy quite like having only a bit more than one day in a city you’ve always wanted to see.  When we booked our trip to the Czech Republic, we decided to stay in place in Prague and do a few day trips rather than being repeatedly on the move like our last few big trips.  When we took a closer look at a map and saw Vienna a mere four hours away, we knew we had to do a quick trip into Austria to spend one night in the city of music.  So what did 30 hours in Vienna look like?  Here’s how we spent the first 12 hours after arriving just before lunch on the first Sunday in September.

12:30 Before going anywhere, we were in desperate need of a caffeine jolt.  Across from our hotel was a coffee shop whose double espresso and lovely pastry got me ready to start exploring.  With caffeine hitting our respective blood streams, we took a streetcar ride around half of the Ringstraße (ring road).  If you envision the Ringstraße as a clock, we took a trip from 12 to 6 to get near the Vienna State Opera.

13:30 On my list of things to try in Vienna was the famous Sachertorte.  Looking up from the map when we got off the streetcar, Hotel Sacher was right in front of us meaning it was time for the rich chocolate cake (with brandy!) and another double espresso.

I loved this cake.  The chocolate icing was almost fudge-like.  I could have had a second piece, but I was well into a deep caffeine and sugar buzz.  Plus, my understanding wife who can’t eat gluten may not have been so eager to sit and watch me wolf down a second slice.

Continue reading

Hockey, Prague style

On a spectacular late August afternoon, in one of the world’s truly beautiful cities, I found myself among 1,000 crazy hockey fans taking in a HC Sparta pre-season match against JYP Jyväskylä from Finland.   Although I’ve given up as a diehard fan of NHL hockey (losing your team will do that to you), the enjoyment of the sport itself is deep in my Canadian DNA.  An opportunity to see my first game on the larger ice surface in another hockey-mad country was just too good a chance to pass up.

What do diehard Czech hockey fans look like?  Probably something like these good folk waiting to head into the arena:

HC Sparta diehard fans

Not only were there passionate HC Sparta fans, but a group of people traveled from Jyväskylä, Finland to watch their team, JYP play…. and they did that for a pre-season game.  They even shelled out for a private box for the game.  Looks like they had a good time:

JYP Jyväskylä fans Continue reading

Falling in love with the Charles Bridge

I have always felt an affection toward bridges.  My guess is that it started when I was just old enough to walk and my Mom would take me to a bridge close to our house so I could watch cars pass on the highway below.  It’s no wonder that one of my first stops in Prague (once I got over a wee bit of jet lag) was the Charles Bridge.

When I think of Prague, “romantic” is the first word that enters my head.  Nowhere was this more tangible that along the length of one of the most famous bridges in the world.  One look and it’s pretty easy to tell why:

Charles Bridge

A chilly, damp late August night only added to the mystique of this bridge to me.  The views at anytime are stunning, but looking out toward Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral as the lights just start to come on is a special kind of magic:

View from Charles Bridge

Continue reading

Pilgrimage to Plzen

You won’t see a description for a day trip to Plzen in your Frommers guide to the Czech Republic, and that’s a bloody shame.  For the beer lover, I would argue it’s almost a necessary visit.  This quaint city gave birth to beautiful thing in 1842: a beer that has stood the test of time – pilsner.

For me, the day trip to Plzen this was a true pilgrimage.  There was no way I was coming to the Czech Republic without visiting where my favourite style of beer was created.   Only a short 90 minute train ride from Prague, the Pilsner Urquell brewery is located just outside of the city centre.  When you arrive, you are greeted by the original gates of the brewery:

Gate at Pilsner Urquell

On our way into the brewery we got to see a morning delivery loading up.  Each day, the brewery delivers beer to bars in the city by horse, keeping alive a long-standing tradition.  I momentarily thought about taking the reins and making away with a few kegs of the good stuff:

Pilsner Urquell delivery into town Continue reading

Gluten free eating in Prague

Goulash.  Dumplings.  Beer (oh, the beer!).  Rich sauces thickened with bread.   I loved my first experiences with Czech cuisine.  But it’s not the most approachable for visitors with a limited grasp of the Czech language who suffer from Celiac disease.

As I planned this trip with my wife who needs to eat a strict gluten free diet, we honed in on a couple of places to ensure she got a taste of authentic Czech food rather than spending two weeks watching me chow down in restaurants while she ate a salad.  In the heart of Prague, we ate at two great places with dedicated gluten-free menus

Švejk Restaurant U Karla

Not to be confused with other Švejk restaurants around Prague, this one at Křemencova 7 has a separate gluten free menu.  In fact, when you order from that menu, your food arrives at the table with little gluten free flags.  This is a great place with a pub feel and we enjoyed the food the two times we visited.

One of the truly great dishes: beer cheese, wrapped in bacon served with a braided bun (similar to a pretzel).  This was amazing gluten free pub food.  I’ve sampled a lot of gluten free bread products and very, very few I’d order unless I needed to.  This one was mind blowing!  I would have had no idea it was gluten free:

Gluten free beer cheese and pretzel

Continue reading

My first European soccer (err, football) match

I can’t even begin to explain how excited I was to get to see my first European football match in Prague.  Bad scheduling luck on past trips kept me from seeing PSG in Paris or Inter or AC Milan in Italy.  I’ve also had a whole host of missed opportunities in Sweden, Denmark, Switzerland, Belgium and the Netherlands.  This trip finally delivered.  My first match was AC Sparta Praha playing FC Baník Ostrava.

Best. Cultural. Experience. Ever!  Can you tell how excited I am from the picture below?

AC Sparta Praha match

I’ve been to my share of sporting events and each and every one holds a special place in my heart.  The only Nordiques game I got to with my Dad, my first Monday Night Football game, sitting in the upper deck for a San Francisco Giants game watching boats out in the bay, a Canada-USA world championship hockey game – all awesome!   And all surpassed by this soccer game in Prague.  Why?

Heavily armed riot police in the subway station and on the walk to the stadium?  Oh yes!  I didn’t get photos of it, but a supporters website sure did.  And people think it’s rough going to a Philadelphia Eagles game…

Continue reading