Home is where my feet are

I’m first writing this from the evening train between Vienna and Prague (I think we’re getting close to Pardubice but don’t quote me on that). The swaying of the train, some good music in my ears, and the glow of small Czech towns passing by the window outside gets me to thinking pretty easily.

This trip has been a bit of a revelation for me. As I sit on the train, I feel like I’m returning to something in Prague.  It’s quickly become home on this trip. Staying in an apartment has helped. Cooking a few meals has too. But it’s more than that. After visits to seventeen countries and with my passion to travel being fully explored as often as I can, I’ve grown in a way that feels suddenly tangible on this trip.

After a particularly nomadic few years, a singer/songwriter I listened to about ten years ago entitled her album “Home is where my feet are”.  She explained that for her, happiness in her life came down to living to that mantra.  Simple and profound, I adopted it as a personal challenge and a rallying cry to which to aspire in senses both literal and metaphorical.

I know I’ll remember this trip for a lot of the experiences and moments – my first European soccer match, a whirlwind thirty hour stopover in Vienna, tasting unfiltered and unpasteurized pilsner where it was first brewed, kissing my wife on the Charles Bridge, sampling all varieties of Czech food….  All of those memories and many, many more I’ll cherish forever.  But what I’ll remember most from these two weeks is the sudden realization I had as I sat in a jet-lagged stupor in our Prague apartment on the first day of this trip. With every chance to feel foreign and out of place, I felt resolutely and entirely comfortable. For the eleven days so far, that feeling hasn’t wavered.   Indeed, home is where my feet are.  And from where I stand, I’m pretty proud of that.

More to come in the weeks ahead on what has been an outstanding trip.

San Juan’s fortifications

Early one morning of our stay, I headed out toward Castillo San Felipe del Morro for some fresh air and to see the fortification without the hordes of other tourists.  This fort was built in the late 1500s to guard San Juan Bay.  It was a perfect morning for exploring this area – not a cloud in the sky and the heat of the day ahead hadn’t yet arrived.  One of the first striking features is the lighthouse, a recent addition to the fort in the early 1900s

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Walking away from the fort, you next encounter the Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery.  This cemetery, dating back to the early 1860s is perched high above the Atlantic Ocean.  There are about a thousand graves located here:

Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery

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This year’s big trip

I’ve been fortunate over the past few years to visit a number of interesting places. Many of those have been short stay, primarily work-related trips.  But by tacking on a day or two of vacation I’ve been able to see some interesting things and have some wonderful experiences that I cherish.  With that said, there’s nothing that compares to a “big trip”.  For us, that’s usually a once a year thing when our work and vacation schedules can be aligned for a two week escape.  Last year it was a four country tour of Scandinavia, the year before had us wandering around Switzerland and down to Milan.  This year our big trip is a two week jaunt to the Czech Republic with an ambitious 40 hour side trip to Vienna thrown in because we’ll be “in the neighbourhood”.

The Czech Republic has been high on our must visit list for a while.  We’ve rented an apartment in Prague for two weeks and will be exploring the city at a leisurely pace.  What’s on our itinerary?  A couple of day trips –  one to Terezín to learn about its horrific history during WWII, another one (perhaps more of a pilgrimage for me) to Plzeň, the birthplace of pilsner beer.  An AC Sparta Praha soccer match gets us to our first game after all our previous trips failed to align with European soccer schedules.  There’s a night at the opera, some castles, a few museums, and a lot of leisurely exploring, hanging out in parks and cafes, and drinking in what will be spectacularly beautiful surroundings.

Our last couple of big trips were less about food and drink than normal.  This one will be very different.  I’m excited to try some traditional Czech cuisine – in particular, pork knee, roast goose, goulash, dumplings and the pungent domestic cheese, Olomoucké tvarůžky.    As a beer lover, my travel map is littered with pins for hopeful visits to many tankovna pubs so I can sample the finest Czech beer at its unpasteurized and unfiltered best.  In Vienna I hope to try some of the world’s best coffee, have a piece (or 3) of sachertorte, and spend an evening at a heuriger on the outskirts of the city sampling the young, fresh white wines produced on the hills of the Danube.

Here’s to this year’s big trip which can’t get here fast enough!

An unexpected craft beer bar

Among the things I look for when visiting any city is a craft beer bar.  When I pulled up Google for Old San Juan, I really wasn’t expecting to find much.  Puerto Rico is rum country and their national beer is a pretty standard Caribbean thirst quencher with little to distinguish it.  Imagine my surprise and delight to learn about La Taberna Lupulo, a craft beer bar located about three blocks from my hotel in Old San Juan.

On a lazy Saturday afternoon with the temperatures hitting about 35°C it was time for a pint or two.  Pulling up a stool at the bar, my first selection was a witbier – Lost Coast Great White from California.  Delicious and refreshing on such a hot day:

Lost Coast Great White witbier

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A day trip to El Yunque

When we picked Puerto Rico as our honeymoon destination, it was with the idea of having a lazy kind of trip.  The plan: five days away, a small area in Old San Juan to explore, some good food and drink, and some general relaxation at our hotel with its rooftop pool, interesting bars and secluded spaces to sit and read.  The one exception to this was a day trip we planned to El Yunque, a tropical rainforest.

Normally we’d have done this ourselves by renting a car, but as it was a lazy trip, we booked a tour to pick us up and drop us off at the hotel and take care of guiding us around.  A relatively peaceful 50 minute drive outside San Juan had us in lush, tropical surroundings.  After a brief stop at El Yunque’s main entrance and interpretive site, we started up the mountain.  A very narrow road wound itself further and further up:

El Yunque

Our first stop was at Coca Falls, right beside the main road up the mountain.  The falls have about a 60 foot drop (you can see some perspective with the people standing part way up on the left):

La Coca Falls

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Streets of Old San Juan

Immediately on entering Old San Juan it feels like you’ve been transported somewhere else.   Many of your senses won’t tell you that you’re in the Caribbean or that you’re actually and (though I know it to be a fact)  almost unbelievably in the United States.  The narrow cobblestone streets and the colonial Spanish architecture of the seven square blocks in this area of San Juan is an oasis juxtaposed against the rest of a hectic, large city.

All of my senses were completely overwhelmed by the streetscapes in Old San Juan.  From the vibrantly coloured buildings to the changing hues of the cobblestones as they became wet during a morning thundershower, then dried in the afternoon sun.  There were palm trees, lazy stray cats and dogs and Latin rhythms coming from behind walls only inches off the sidewalks down narrow alleys.   Strangers huddled tightly together under awnings to stay dry during the frequent quick downpours.  The scents that wafted out of restaurants, full of garlic and onion,  hung in the humid, almost oppressive late June air.

This part of the city was achingly beautiful in a way I haven’t seen before in my travels. Here are a few snaps from the streets of Old San Juan that for me, capture at least the pure physical beauty of this historic area.

Chef for a day

A big part of the draw to visit Puerto Rico was its cuisine.  The first time I heard about mofongo I made a mental note that I would jump at an opportunity to visit the island.  Fast forward a few years and the combination of looking for a honeymoon destination and some very cheap airfares had us headed to San Juan.

For our first full day in San Juan we had booked a cooking class in Isla Verde to learn some of the secrets of Puerto Rican cuisine.  That in and of itself was something to look forward to.  Then we showed up to the open air kitchen where our class was to take place.  This was a kitchen with a serious view of the beach and the Atlantic Ocean:

View from the kitchen

Pretty nice eh?  The view the other way wasn’t too shabby either:

View from the kitchen

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