Everything is better in Italy

October 8 – Two days in beautiful Milan start with an easy check-in to Hotel Berna close to the train station.  We drop our bags and head to Santa Maria della Grazie for a 15 minute appointment to view The Last Supper by da Vinci.   Spending time with the painting was moving – it’s fragile based on the technique used, and there was a door cut where Jesus’ feet were painted (I guess no one thought it would be such a big deal). Pictures are strictly forbidden so all we have is this picture of the outside of the beautiful church:

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Milan: Duomo in pictures

October 8-9 – Ask people what they think of when you say “Italy”, and Milan will be a fair bit down the list for most.  We booked these couple of days here on speculation since we were so close, had never been to Italy before, and I thought I would be getting to see either AC Milan or Inter Milan play at San Siro.  The soccer schedule didn’t work out for me, but the time we spent around the Duomo more than made up for missing out on soccer.  More on our two days in Milan in a later post – for now, here’s a photo blog of the beautiful Duomo in Milan.

The Duomo at around 9am, before the crowds:

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Airports

I wrote this at the airport waiting for my flight home last night…

Maybe it’s the death defying cab ride from my hotel to the airport this afternoon (115 mph on I-95 and lane changes that would make a NASCAR driver proud) that has me thinking about life as I sit in a rocking chair across from a Chick-fil-A at PHL.  But then again, maybe it’s just the airport itself that has this affect on me.  I’m wondering about the stories of each of the people that walk through my view.  Is the young woman heading off on a voyage she’s been dreaming about for months?   Is the gentleman in the orange sweater leaving or returning to a lover?

I think airports are a portal to deeper thinking about one’s life.   I know of no one who has set foot in one who hasn’t thought of the opportunities waiting for them or dreaded an inevitability at the other end.  Airports are places where your mind can wander uninhibited into the brighter or darker places within yourself.  The time before or between flights is a sort of artificial suspension of your life.  You’re trapped between your origin and where you are headed – physically and spiritually.  In that space, the mind is freed to explore.

Though I have a ravenous traveling soul, in a near empty airport tonight, I’m longing to be back home, in my bed, next to the woman I love.

A taste of Italy, before Italy

October 6-7 – Our itinerary called for 2 days between Zurich and Milan.  Scanning some Swiss tourism brochures, I picked Lugano for a couple of reasons: it looked stunningly beautiful (something we came to learn applied to everywhere we went in Switzerland), there were well reviewed red wines made in the region, and it is a unique pocket of Italian culture tucked inside Switzerland’s border. 

The train trip from Zurich was two and a half hours of amazing views out the window – valleys and mountains, quaint towns, rivers and lakes.   It was on this train ride that I was reminded that the journey is as important as the destination.  When we arrive in Lugano, I’m actually a bit disappointed to get off the train.

It’s a short walk from the train station to our hotel.  We attempt to check in, and they don’t have any record of our reservation.   I had cancelled our original reservation and re-booked when the price dropped.  They saw the cancellation, but never caught the new booking.   After a few minutes, they apologized for the mistake with the keys for an upgraded room.  The first breathtaking moment in Lugano came when I opened the window to this view:

That made supper plans really easy – a Ticino merlot and a few staples from the grocery store would be enjoyed while we sat on our deck and looked out over Lugano.  So taken were we with the view, we took this video from our hotel room patio of Lugano.

We took a stroll around the town on our first afternoon and  it really felt like we were in a different country.  Without the Swiss flag flying, you really would have thought you were in Italy.

Some of the Italian influenced architecture:

The main town square of Lugano:

A view of Lugano from across the lake:

The clarity of the skies on our second day beckoned us to travel up one of the two mountains surrounding the town – Monte San Salvatore (912 metres).  From the top, we have 360 degree views including toward Lombardy (Italy) and of the Swiss and Savoy Alps:

Here’s the obligatory shot of the two of us from the windy peak.  We’re actually standing on the roof of a church – a location which affords the best views.

After lunch on our balcony (we really couldn’t take our eyes off the view) and an afternoon walk around the town (complete with a gelato break on a bench by the lake), we wrap up our last evening in Lugano by having a typical Ticino supper of risotto (mushroom risotto for me, saffron risotto for Jodi) along with another Ticino merlot at La Tinera just off the town square. 

I know I left part of my heart here.  The views, the laid back Italian lifestyle and the surprisingly great wines made these two of the best days of our trip.

Our take on planes, trains and automobiles

October 5 – We’re on a train out of Zurich toward Lucerne before the sun is up.  The jump on the day is so we can spend the morning on top of Mt. Pilatus (2132m) before it gets too crowded.  We’re planning on completing what is called the “Golden Round Trip”.  From Lucerne, this involves a bus to the small town of Kriens, a short walk to a cable car station which takes us to a gondola station in Frakmuntegg.  On this part of the trip, the still air is filled with the sound of Swiss cow bells from the cows grazing on the mountain slopes below.  The descent involves a trip on the world’s steepest cog railway (48 degrees at greatest slope) to Alpnachstad, and then a 90 minute ride on a lake steamer back to Lucerne.  By the end of the day back in Zurich, we’ll have traveled on seven modes of transportation (train, tram, cable car, gondola, cog railway, boat, bus).

The early morning ascent, first from the cable car looking back on Lucerne, then from the gondola:

We arrive on top of Mt. Pilatus with only about 20 other people.  It’s perfectly quiet on top of the mountain this morning.  There’s no wind, the temperature is just below zero and we emerge above the clouds to spectacular blue skies and sun.   Heading outside of the gondola terminal, I see mountains for the first time in my life:

Jodi and I share the moment in almost complete silence, in awe of what we’re seeing.   My jaw literally drops at the beauty around me.  After a few minutes of taking in this scene, we’re off on a hike around the mountain:

Here’s the two of us as the hike comes to an end and it’s time to head back down the mountain:

After a half hour descent via cog railway, we’re on a lake steamer for the trip back via Lake Lucerne.  By now, it’s warmed up close to 20C and the early morning clouds have moved off to reveal another beautiful day.  The scenery along the lake is stunning – mountains, rolling hills and quaint towns hugging the rugged terrain:

We spend about an hour on a short walking tour of Lucerne.  The city is gorgeous – tree lined streets, German inspired architecture, and of course, their famous Chapel Bridge:

Back in Zurich after the train from Lucerne, we get ready to take in the opera “La Traviata” at Zurich’s Opernhaus.   This Verdi opera is wonderful – the symphony is outstanding and the acoustics of the opera hall are first class.  Even from our back row seats, we have a great view.

A Swiss adventure begins…

This is to be a different kind of trip for the two of us.  Swiss train pass in hand, we’re off across the pond to a land we don’t know much about.  Our loose itinerary has us planning to see a few cities, some mountains and to sample from the German, Italian and French areas of Switzerland (with a two day detour to Milan thrown in for good measure).

October 4
About 11 hours after leaving Halifax, we arrive in Zurich (via Frankfurt).  Condor isn’t a bad airline, but the legroom for my 6’2” frame leaves much to be desired.  At least the person in front of me doesn’t recline during the 7 hours to Frankfurt.   With a brief hour and a half nap on the plane, I’m surprisingly refreshed when we arrive in Zurich to striking blue skies and 25C temperatures.  A short train ride into the city and we’re soon in our room at Hotel Bristol

We pick up a bite to eat from a grocery store and find a bench in the central train station to people watch before an afternoon city tour.  The city tour as a means to make use of a jet-lagged arrival day is now a staple in our travel planning.  This one of Zurich is quite nice, taking us through a number of areas we wouldn’t have otherwise seen including some residential neighbourhoods, the university area and around Lake Zurich.

We made reservations at Hiltl (a vegetarian restaurant) and enjoyed a few interesting dishes.  Jodi’s was the most creative (a banana madras).  By the end of the meal, a very long day of travel fatigue is settling in so we walk back to the hotel via the chic Bahnhofstrasse to get some sleep.  Here are a couple of quick snaps of Zurich on the walk back.

Bahnhofstrasse:

Zurich HB (central train station):

Limmat River (the Swiss National Museum is the illuminated tower just off centre):

For a first day, it’s a pretty good one.  Flight was on-time, we get our hotel room early, get a bit of a feel for Zurich and have a nice meal.   Our heads hit the pillow for a deep, travel-weary sleep.  The alarm clock is set early for the next morning – it’s the day I’ll get to see mountains for the first time.

Escape from New York

I’ll start this by saying I’ve been very, very fortunate when it comes to airline travel.  The sum total of my interesting flight/delay stories amounts to:

1. A night spent in a very comfortable Mississauga hotel when I missed a connecting flight due to weather in Toronto

2. A lost bag transiting through Boston which promptly found its way home to me within 12 hours

3. Having to travel with only a plastic Ziploc bag back from Brussels after a terrorist plot was uncovered while we were in Europe – the one that started the whole 3-1-1 garbage we live with today

4. Having to sit in a plane on the tarmac in Toronto due to a storm passing through (but, truth be told, I was in first class, so really, it was like I was at a bar for a couple of hours)

(Interesting note: for all of the crap Air Canada takes, 3 of the above were with our beloved national carrier, and to this day, I still feel better flying AC than any other airline.  They seem to handle the bad stuff better than other airlines.)

My travel karma has been good, and I hope it stays that way.

Our trip home from New York started innocently enough.  While waiting at JFK, we noticed that everything outside stopped moving for about 30 minutes.  A large series of storms were moving up the Atlantic coast and put a stop to airline operations until the danger passed through NYC.  That same storm had played more havoc on flight schedules for other eastern airports.

As departure time approaches, there’s a massive crunch at our gate.  Hundreds and hundreds of people are huddled around a desk trying to figure out what’s going on.  Flights are being cancelled and departures are being pushed back and there’s *NO* communication taking place between the American Airlines agents and anyone looking for information.

Our departure time of 6:55 passes and the departure board keeps updating our boarding time by 10 minutes every 10 minutes.  Around 10:30, we get word our flight is cancelled.  We grab a courtesy phone, rebook for the next day and make off in search of our bags.  While Jodi waits for luggage, I’m on my iPhone booking a hotel for the night and heading back upstairs to pick up tickets for tomorrow (now on Delta).  Back downstairs and no luggage to be found.  We get conflicting news from AA agents but find out that there won’t be anymore bags being put out tonight.  We’re told our luggage will find its way home eventually (um, ok).

At this point, I lose any care for my luggage and seek out a taxi line.  Everyone else who’s been cancelled has done the same so it’s about a 45 minute wait.  Eventually, we get a cab – he’s got no idea how to get to our hotel – but we make it eventually.  We just beat a bus full of cancelled people to the front desk, but they have no record of our reservation.   Some polite encouragement, and we’ve got a room for the night (the gentleman beside me took a different tact and screamed at the hotel clerk – he and his wife ended up in a room with a single bed – we got a reasonable room with two Queen Beds – score one for the good guys).  By now its past 2am, and supper consists of the gluten-free stuff we could find on our way out of the airport – stale carrot/celery sticks, an energy bar, and some cheese and grapes.  The whole night had an “Amazing Race” like quality to it.   Jodi and I handled the curve balls well as a team and won the race to the hotel in my mind 🙂

Fast forward to next day – we’re back at JFK early all fueled up on a Hampton Inn breakfast (well, I am, Jodi is left with yogurt and a banana as the only things not containing wheat).  We kill some time doing some duty free shopping (I actually find a great watch and a couple nice bottles to bring back) and stop for lunch and a drink:

We get on our flight home (somehow my duty free purchases didn’t find their way to the gate so I strike out on a great new watch and tequila) and everything is going well until we’re into our descent into Halifax.  I casually mention that it feels we’re in a steep/fast descent and as we’re approaching the airport there are massive flashes of light out the window.  My first thought was the wing was on fire.  It was lightning – you could feel the plane start to shake.  Luckily, we were only a minute off the ground.  Landing was pretty routine, but within 200 feet of our gate, the plane comes to a dead stop.  The airport had ceased all its ground operations due to the severe weather and electrical storm.  Our flight touched down at 9:30 and we’re not moving again until around 1:15am.  The Delta flight attendant is amazing throughout – there’s coffee, drinks and food for everyone.  After a long wait getting through customs, we wait in line to fill out missing bag forms before they’ll let us out of the secured customs area.  My Dad (bless his soul), was waiting the whole time at the airport for us tonight (and was waiting up the previous night as well). 

PS – Two days later, our luggage arrives.  All of our stuff is in tact, but my bag has had it’s frame bent and Delta is claiming no responsibility (boo!).   Final tally: 38 hours to make the trip from our original NY hotel to our front door; 1 broken piece of luggage, 2 missed bottles of duty free liquor, about $400 in extra travel expenses and a reminder of why I will try to travel without checked bags ever again 🙂 

New York – Day 5

Last (planned) day in the big city.  Jodi found an article in a travel magazine she brought along for airplane reading that pointed us to our breakfast destination: Mario Batali’s Eataly.  We start our day here for what were outstanding cappuccinos.  I had an apple pastry that was heavenly:

We’re off via subway to MoMA to take in the galleries.  It’s really impressive.  There’s a great breadth of exhibits from master works of art to interactive and social media-engaged communications pieces.   Some of my favourite works:

George Maciunas piece collecting all his food packaging from one year of living:

Andy Warhol:

Picasso – Glass of Absinthe:

Leaving MoMA, we head back to have lunch close to our hotel for an afternoon trip to JFK to catch our 7pm flight home.  We pick up our bags at the hotel, hop on the subway and are off to the airport.  We decided to leave a little early to do some duty free shopping and to have a relaxing afternoon at the airport.   I never saw my duty free purchases, and relaxing isn’t the word I’d use to describe the airport experience.

New York – Day 4

I’ve found that being in Manhattan, especially in the Times Square area, you lose track of the days of the week.   Day 4 of our trip, a Sunday, starts out with me wandering across the street from our hotel into the Port Authority Bus Terminal in search of a breakfast pastry.  It’s 8:00am, it’s loud and busy, there’s an actual fire in one of the restaurants with alarms going off – definitely doesn’t feel like Sunday.

About 2 hrs later, we’re in Central Park, and suddenly it feels like Sunday:

You’ve seen scenes from countless movies centered around the large lake in Central Park.  When we were putting together our itinerary for this trip, we both wanted to take out one of the row boats onto the lake for a spin.  Out on the lake you get amazing views of New York city architecture appearing above the trees of the park:

After a quick lunch, we head to High Line park in the Chelsea neighbourhood.  New York, in its civic wisdom, reclaimed old elevated train tracks along the west side of Manhattan and turned it into an urban park (a great National Geographic article on the park is here – it’s what made us want to visit).  There’s beautiful gardens, views out over the Hudson River and of NYC, public art – it’s a real treat to spend some time walking in this area.

Shot of 10th Ave from the park:

Shot of the Empire State Building from the park:

I go off on a late afternoon walk through the heart of Manhattan on a search for a particular tea to bring back home for my Mom.  I’m unsuccessful (but found what I hope will be a suitable substitute), but manage some pictures along my walk:

Times Square:

Rockefeller Center:

St. Patrick’s Cathedral:

We decided that for our last night in New York we would have dinner at Cuba Restaurant close to Washington Square park.   It was a beautiful evening, so we headed out early and wandered around the neighbourhood, stopping in Washington Square to take in the scene.  The restaurant itself was a cozy place seating perhaps 30 people at most.   Tonight, Jodi actually ordered for me (I had trouble making up my mind) and did a great job.  The appetizer (Tiradito de Pargo: marinated red snapper with lemon, red onions, jalepeno, cilantro, fresh mango) was fresh and light.  My main course was Lechon Asado (Suckling pig with yucca, garlic mojo) – to this day I haven’t had baby pig that wasn’t amazingly delicious. 

The hit of the night for me was a drink (big surprise) – Mojito 23.  A mojito made with Zapaca 23 year old rum.  It was very smooth.  I wrote the restaurant after I got home to get the recipe and preparation so I can try to recreate it.  Their answer provided insight into why this was such a great drink: 4 oz of rum and it’s finished with a splash of champagne rather than soda.  Here I am with my favourite drink of this trip:

The meal was a great end to what was supposed to be our last night in New York.   Little did we know the travel experience we were about to have over the next two days….

New York – Day 3

Saturday.  34C and not a cloud in the sky.  No humidity.  It was a perfect day for baseball.

The Yankees are at the end of a home-stand and are playing Baltimore over the weekend.   Due to an earlier season rain-out, today’s game is the first of two the teams play, meaning we get to see some of the Yankees reserve players as they rest some guys for the game later that night (no Jeter, no Granderson).

We’re out to the ballpark as the gates open to allow maximum wandering around time inside the stadium.  As it’s hot and the game the previous night started late due to rain, both teams decide against batting practice today.

Yankee Stadium is beautiful.  I never made it to the original park, but this one is clean, spacious and the sightlines are perfect.  Even from the upper reaches of the upper deck in the outfield, you still feel close to the action.  Here are some views from inside the stadium:

The two of us just after walking into the park.  The seats behind us go for $800+/game:

From behind home plate:

View back toward the infield from the outfield bleachers:

View from the upper deck in the outfield:

After walking around, grabbing lunch (Nathan’s hotdog and a Yuengling for me, GF sausage and fresh lemonade for Jodi), we head to our seats.   We were fortunate to have seats in the first row of the 2nd upper deck – affordable (this is an expensive place to watch baseball: I’m more partial to the $14 Jays tickets or the “good old days” buying $7 Expos tickets and sitting wherever you wanted in the Big O), and offering a great view of the action.  Here’s a shot of the action from our seats from the first inning as Baltimore threatened to score:

The game stayed close through 4 innings with the Baltimore pitcher confounding the Yankees hitters the first time through the line-up.  That changed pretty significantly as the Yankees got a second look at the pitcher and they ended up teeing off on him and his bullpen replacements to the tune of an 8-3 win.  A pretty enjoyable game to watch – lots of baserunners, a HR to right by Swisher, a couple of doubles off the wall.  Being here reminded me why I love baseball – it’s a perfect backdrop for an afternoon conversation.   Although I gave up following the game once my Expos packed up and left Montreal, I still enjoy watching the game in person more than the other 3 pro sports.

Back to the hotel to freshen up and then to Rosa Mexicano, one of the top reviewed Mexican restaurants in the city.  We’re heading to the 1st Avenue location (the original one) as they have a dedicated GF menu for Jodi.   Walking in, we can feel this is going to be a special meal.  The place is tiny, there’s a woman at the back making fresh corn tortillas, and there’s a great selection of tequila bottles lining the bar.

First course, table side made guacamole of course (frozen pomegranate margarita and the El Mexcalito – strawberries, tequila, mezcal and lemon):

Second course – pork belly tacos:

Drinks with the second course – La Mandarina (fresh muddled tangerine, fresh basil, El Jimador silver tequila, fresh lemon, organic agave) and La Sandía (fresh muddled watermelon, rosemary simple syrup, El Jimador silver tequila, fresh lemon):

Main course – For me, it’s Mixiote de Cordero (lamb shank coated with 3 chiles and spices and steamed in parchment paper).  For Jodi, it’s Alambre a la Mexicana (skewers of filet mignon, chorizo, onions, tomatoes, serrano peppers with rice and tomatillo and tomato-chipotle sauces).  These are outstanding, Jodi’s dish in particular is one of the best meat dishes I’ve ever had:

Dessert: We decide to have more drinks for dessert.  I get a Mango Tropical (silver tequila, mango puree, organic agave, fresh lime) and Jodi gets La Piñela (silver tequila, pineapple juice, cinnamon simple syrup, fresh lime):

With tequila-induced smiles on our faces, we walk off some of supper and head to Dylan’s Candy Bar, knowing that our full bellies will keep candy purchases in check tonight: