The price of eating in Norway

I’ve been to a few expensive places in which to travel over the past couple of years (Zurich, I’m looking at you), but nothing really prepared me for the cost of eating in Norway.  In other costly cities – Paris, New York, Milan, I’ve had no trouble finding great economical places to eat where I felt I got a taste of the location.  Not so in Norway.  Seth Kugel, the New York Times “Frugal Traveler” put it best when he recently wrote:

Norway is the extreme Scandinavian case, though — the only country I’ve ever been in where I suffered from constant, low-grade budget anxiety. On the opposite end is Sweden, which, if you come directly from Norway, feels like you’ve entered a 173,300-square-mile Costco.

Traveling is about the memories – being a couple of accountants, we budget for trips so we’re not thinking about money while away.  With that planning we saved our travel dollars for the cuisine of Iceland laying ahead in our travels and quickly labeled Norway as a place where we’d live off of grocery store food for a few days.  This was our first supper in Bergen, and still clocked in at around $20:

Supper Continue reading →

A day trip to remember – Norway’s fjords

The 11th day of our Scandinavian trip had us waking up in quaint Bergen.  We selected Bergen as a home base for the ease of a spectacular day trip to explore Norway’s famous fjords – in particular the Nærøyfjord and Aurlandsfjord arms of the Sognefjord.

Despite ominous weather forecasts, as we leave Bergen on a train en route for Voss, the weather is holding and looking positive.  Here’s a view out of the train window about 20 minutes outside Bergen:

From the train just after leaving Bergen Continue reading →

Bergen. First stop: Fløyen

A little over a week into our Scandinavian adventure, we board a quick flight from Stockholm to Bergen, Norway.  It’s a very clear day (something that apparently is a bit of a rarity for Bergen), so we have a wonderful view of the town as we land at the airport about 30 minutes outside the centre.  The clear day (and an ominous weather forecast for the rest of our stay in this coastal town) and the view from the plane inspired us to make a beeline to the top of Fløyen mountain.  A short funicular ride from virtually the centre of Bergen puts this panoramic view on display:

Fløyen mountain Continue reading →

Sunday in Uppsala

A Sunday morning in late July seemed like the perfect time to visit Uppsala, the fourth largest city in Sweden.   Home to about 140,000 people, it’s a university town located about a 45 minute train ride north of Stockholm.   We arrived to a very quiet place ready for some exploring with no itinerary or plans in mind.

A quick walk from its newly refurbished train station and we’re at the Fryis River which cuts Uppsala in half.  It’s a beautiful walk along the river and a great way to start exploring the town:

Along the river Continue reading →

Stockholm from the water

Stockholm is one of the most beautiful large cities I’ve been fortunate enough to visit.  The combination of 13th-16th century architecture, ample green spaces and the summer spirit of embracing the extended daylight hours combined to really pull at my heart.

We spent part of an afternoon taking a tour of Stockholm by water and from that vantage point, the beauty of Stockholm bloomed.  Here are some pictures of this gorgeous city from the water.

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Vasa and Skansen

For our second full day in Stockholm, I turned the itinerary planning over to my love and she came up with two things I wouldn’t have if left to my own devices.  At the end of the day, I was very grateful for her insistence on seeing the Vasa Museum and Skansen.

We started the day with a short streetcar ride to Djurgården to time our arrival for the opening of the Vasa Museum.  A few minutes after entering, I was so very glad this was included in our plans.  The museum houses Vasa, a Swedish warship built in the early 1600s.  Before getting into the fascinating story of the ship, here she is:

Warship Vasa Continue reading →

A taste of reindeer

This trip to Scandinavia wasn’t really a foodie trip for me.  That had nothing to do with the  cuisines of Denmark, Sweden and Norway, all wonderful and worth exploring, but more the economics of eating out repeatedly over a 14 day trip in some very expensive countries.   In prioritizing what I wanted to try in Sweden, reindeer was at the top of my list.   I managed two tastes on the same day.  The first came at Skansen when I stepped up to order a #4:

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Gamla Stan in photos

Gamla Stan, the original site and old town of Stockholm, has a charm that keeps drawing you back.  Its narrow, winding streets, lined with shops, cafes and restaurants, are an unmistakeable tourist draw.  Here are some photos of Gamla Stan as we experienced it a few times over our four days in Stockholm.

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Palaces, Royal history and Globes – Day One in Stockholm

I’m ready for the first full day in Stockholm.  This is partially because I forgot to pull the blackout drapes closed the night before and our east facing room became bathed in daylight before 4am.  It’s also because we get our day started with a pretty substantial Swedish breakfast.  This is the morning I came to wonder where lingonberries have been my whole life.

On our “must see” list in Stockholm is Drottningholm Palace.  Located about 40 minutes outside central Stockholm and easily reached by metro and bus, it feels like we’ve arrived somewhere very far away from a large urban metropolis.  It’s about 10am and I’m struck by the peacefulness and lush green surroundings:

Arrival

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Gluten-free eating in Sweden

Before writing more about our time spent in Sweden, I feel compelled to write about the wonderful options for gluten-free eating in this great country.  My fiancée was diagnosed with Celiac a number of years ago.  On our travels in non-English speaking countries, this has made for a few difficulties while eating out.  Sometimes we have to simply leave a restaurant, sometimes my love is on the receiving end of a dirty look or an uninspiring meal while I go to town on a delicious dish she can’t have.  Not so in Sweden.  At every eating establishment we visited, there was an immediate understanding of Celiac Disease and the requirement for strict gluten-free food.  Everyone was good enough to warn us about possible cross-contamination if any items were fried in oil used for other non-gluten-free items.  You come to expect that level of service at nicer restaurants, but on this trip, a true sense of the ease of gluten-free eating came from visits to a couple of fast food places and cafes.

Not the kind of place we’d normally visit while traveling, but when your partner hasn’t had a fast food hamburger in more than three years, McDonald’s becomes a bit of a novelty.   So much of a novelty, that on our arrival we dropped our bags at the hotel and made a beeline to the first set of golden arches we saw.  Here are the gluten-free versions of their double cheeseburger and Big Mac.  Taste-wise, they’re authentic to the regular burgers.  The buns are actually pretty good:

GF double cheeseburgerGF Big Mac

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