New York – Day 3

Saturday.  34C and not a cloud in the sky.  No humidity.  It was a perfect day for baseball.

The Yankees are at the end of a home-stand and are playing Baltimore over the weekend.   Due to an earlier season rain-out, today’s game is the first of two the teams play, meaning we get to see some of the Yankees reserve players as they rest some guys for the game later that night (no Jeter, no Granderson).

We’re out to the ballpark as the gates open to allow maximum wandering around time inside the stadium.  As it’s hot and the game the previous night started late due to rain, both teams decide against batting practice today.

Yankee Stadium is beautiful.  I never made it to the original park, but this one is clean, spacious and the sightlines are perfect.  Even from the upper reaches of the upper deck in the outfield, you still feel close to the action.  Here are some views from inside the stadium:

The two of us just after walking into the park.  The seats behind us go for $800+/game:

From behind home plate:

View back toward the infield from the outfield bleachers:

View from the upper deck in the outfield:

After walking around, grabbing lunch (Nathan’s hotdog and a Yuengling for me, GF sausage and fresh lemonade for Jodi), we head to our seats.   We were fortunate to have seats in the first row of the 2nd upper deck – affordable (this is an expensive place to watch baseball: I’m more partial to the $14 Jays tickets or the “good old days” buying $7 Expos tickets and sitting wherever you wanted in the Big O), and offering a great view of the action.  Here’s a shot of the action from our seats from the first inning as Baltimore threatened to score:

The game stayed close through 4 innings with the Baltimore pitcher confounding the Yankees hitters the first time through the line-up.  That changed pretty significantly as the Yankees got a second look at the pitcher and they ended up teeing off on him and his bullpen replacements to the tune of an 8-3 win.  A pretty enjoyable game to watch – lots of baserunners, a HR to right by Swisher, a couple of doubles off the wall.  Being here reminded me why I love baseball – it’s a perfect backdrop for an afternoon conversation.   Although I gave up following the game once my Expos packed up and left Montreal, I still enjoy watching the game in person more than the other 3 pro sports.

Back to the hotel to freshen up and then to Rosa Mexicano, one of the top reviewed Mexican restaurants in the city.  We’re heading to the 1st Avenue location (the original one) as they have a dedicated GF menu for Jodi.   Walking in, we can feel this is going to be a special meal.  The place is tiny, there’s a woman at the back making fresh corn tortillas, and there’s a great selection of tequila bottles lining the bar.

First course, table side made guacamole of course (frozen pomegranate margarita and the El Mexcalito – strawberries, tequila, mezcal and lemon):

Second course – pork belly tacos:

Drinks with the second course – La Mandarina (fresh muddled tangerine, fresh basil, El Jimador silver tequila, fresh lemon, organic agave) and La Sandía (fresh muddled watermelon, rosemary simple syrup, El Jimador silver tequila, fresh lemon):

Main course – For me, it’s Mixiote de Cordero (lamb shank coated with 3 chiles and spices and steamed in parchment paper).  For Jodi, it’s Alambre a la Mexicana (skewers of filet mignon, chorizo, onions, tomatoes, serrano peppers with rice and tomatillo and tomato-chipotle sauces).  These are outstanding, Jodi’s dish in particular is one of the best meat dishes I’ve ever had:

Dessert: We decide to have more drinks for dessert.  I get a Mango Tropical (silver tequila, mango puree, organic agave, fresh lime) and Jodi gets La Piñela (silver tequila, pineapple juice, cinnamon simple syrup, fresh lime):

With tequila-induced smiles on our faces, we walk off some of supper and head to Dylan’s Candy Bar, knowing that our full bellies will keep candy purchases in check tonight:

New York – Day 2

Some days on vacation are smooth with everything going according to your itinerary, and some days start off like this one. 

The plan was simple enough – wake early, subway to the Staten Island Ferry, walk back to a scheduled tour of the New York Federal Reserve Bank, then take a tour of Brooklyn.   We woke early enough, but the timing in my mind wasn’t working well enough.  When we got to the Staten Island Ferry dock, we realized we wouldn’t have enough time to get over and back before our Fed tour.  So we call audible 1 – let’s do a walking tour past the WTC site and then on to Wall Street before our tour:

The “Bull” in lower Manhattan:

WTC site under construction:

Jodi in front of the New York Stock Exchange:

Next it was on to a tour of the Federal Reserve Bank of New York.  Some interesting exhibits and coin displays (including a rare 1933 Double Eagle coin worth millions) preceded a tour into their gold vault holding over $335 billion worth of gold bars.  No photography was permitted, but I got to touch a stack of gold bars worth just north of $3b. 

Leaving the Fed, we realized we had only one of our two tour tickets for Brooklyn, so audible 2 was called – a ferry ride to see the Statue of Liberty and the lower Manhattan skyline:

After a quick stop at a gluten free bakery for some mini cupcakes (we’ve tried some of the best GF bakeries in NY and Chicago, and still nothing compares to Halifax’s own Susie’s Shortbreads GF cupcakes), cookies and a surprisingly good gluten-free muffin, we’re on to Les Halles for a late lunch.  The steak frites are outstanding.

On the way back to the hotel to rest our feet, we make a quick stop at Grand Central Station.  It is a remarkable building and the main hall is awe inspiring.  You can imagine the number of people through here in a day and all the greetings and good-byes that have happened here over the years:

The evening sees us taking in a Broadway play – Billy Elliot at the Imperial Theatre.   It’s spectacular – the music, dancing and acting is first rate.  Even if you’re not a fan of the theatre, it’s something you can’t miss here.  A Broadway play is unlike anything else you’ve ever seen.

Times Square at night wraps up our day.  Here we are together taking in the sights:

Two days in, and I’ve got the subway system down (after a bumpy start) and starting to walk like a New Yorker (ignoring traffic signals, elbows up).   Years from now, I know what I hope I remember today for – the day the Philadelphia Eagles signed Nnamdi Asomugha, the missing defensive piece that finally got them a long-awaited Super Bowl:

New York – Day 1

The travel day routine is pretty straightforward now.  Wake early.  Drive out to Sackville to pick up my Dad who will keep our car (and wash it!) while we’re away.  Head to the airport.  

Today, we’re through security and US customs quickly and settle in until flight time.  As the NFL as opened for business, we’re both scanning Twitter and news feeds for the latest news.   The flight leaves on time and arrives on time in New York. 

We can’t check-in at our lovely boutique hotel, but a quick change of clothes and we’re off to take a tour of upper Manhattan and Harlem.  You can almost feel the disgust of the locals as they look up at you on top of the big red tour buses, but for a first day in a new city, this is a good way to get oriented.

After the tour, we’ve off for lunch at Bar Americain, a Bobby Flay restaurant.  In the middle of a business lunch crowd, we’re very under dressed, but I hardly notice once my burger shows up.  It’s hands down the best burger I’ve ever had.  On the side are the best fries I’ve had since Belgium a few years ago.  Crispy outside, fluffy insides – perfection.   A Dogfish Head 60 minute IPA is the perfect beverage accompaniment.

After much more than the daily recommended serving of red meat, we’re off to check into our hotel.  Spectacular room, modern design and outstanding staff, it’s the perfect home away from home for the next 4 nights.

After a wee bit of wandering around in the late afternoon, dinner is a short subway ride away at Pure Food and Wine close to the Union Square area.   The restaurant serves raw vegan food.  Nothing is heated above 118F in the preparation process.  The meal was an eye opening experience and one of the most uniquely pleasurable meals I’ve ever had.  Jodi and I kept sharing parts of our meal back and forth completely taken with the flavours and textures.  Although a difficult selection from a spectacular menu, here’s what I settled on:

Drinks: I start with a mojito made with sake (very fresh and crisp) and it sets a great tone for the meal.  A glass of Oregon pinot noir went well with the meal.

Starter (see below): Niwa Maki of Avocado, Enoki Mushrooms, Pickled Heirloom Baby Carrots with asparagus, mango, scallions, spicy aioli:

Main: Sweet Corn and Cashew Tamales with Chili Spiced Portabella with salsa verde, cashew coconut sour cream, avocado, raw cacao mole – the mole was outstanding, the tamales had a delicate flavour and I could drink buckets of the cashew coconut sour cream. 

Dessert: Salted Chocolate Caramel Tart with pecan caramel, dark chocolate ganache, maldon sea salt and vanilla cream (split with Jodi as I was well on my way into a food coma by this point in the evening)

Probably among the top all-time meals for me (and there’s some good competition for that list).  It’s a great end to our first day in New York.

Journeys are the midwives of thought

Being a part-time student for the past 17 months has meant I’m not reading as much for pleasure as I would like to.  Today, I picked up Alain de Botton’s “The Art of Travel” to escape what has been weeks of immersion in a very large business case.  There on page 57, in language better than I could ever craft, is the essence of why I love to travel.

“Journeys are the midwives of thought. Few places are more conducive to internal conversations than moving planes, ships, or trains. There is almost quaint correlation between what is before our eyes and the thoughts we are able to have in our heads: large thoughts at times requiring large views, and new thoughts, new places. Introspective reflections that might otherwise be liable to stall are helped along by the flow of the landscape. The mind may be reluctant to think properly when thinking is all it is supposed to do; the task can be as paralyzing as having to tell a joke or mimic an accent on demand.

Thinking improves when parts of the mind are given other tasks — charged with listening to music, for example, or following a line of trees. The music or the view distracts for a time that nervous, censorious, practical part of the mind which is inclined to shut down when it notices something difficult emerging in consciousness, and which runs scared of memories, longings and introspective or original ideas, preferring instead the administrative and the impersonal.”

I’ll be back someday

Each trip has a moment that sticks with you.  As time passes, and the sharper edges of your experiences start to blur, it’s what you’ll remember.  Over a glass of wine years later with your traveling partner, it’s the thing you recall when she asks “Do you remember that time….”

Years from now, this is the moment from Mexico that will stay in my heart.  The beauty of the ruins at Tulum with the Caribbean Sea below the cliffs.