A short winter escape

Winters in Saskatoon are long. Really, really long. I have found a key aspect of surviving weeks upon weeks of bitterly cold temperatures and darkness is to take things one day at a time and have some form of winter travel plan. Both for the escape from Saskatoon, but also for the joy of planning that escape. I liked last year’s plan – a week in Mexico in late December and then a city break in mid February to Portland. This year due to time and other constraints my plan put all of its eggs into a basket of a few days in Vancouver.

It is not all that hard to find a place warmer than Saskatoon in February, and even though Vancouver was a bit colder than seasonal when I visited, it was a real novelty to not wear a heavy jacket and to be able to venture outside without gloves on. I even enjoyed the nostalgia associated with having to carry around an umbrella during most of my visit, something I never need to do in Saskatoon.

Vancouver was exactly what I needed. A late winter distraction and change of scenery. It had most of the hallmarks of a great solo trip. A couple of fun events – a Canucks game and an international wine tasting fit the bill. There were craft beer tastings at new to me since my last visit East Vancouver breweries. There was wonderful food including a couple of great feeds of sushi. And, of course, there was the water. A rare beautiful blue sky February day greeted me on a day of hiking around the seawall that topped up my spirit with the sights and sounds of the coast. I think this trip will give me just the right amount of strength to see through the final period of winter in Saskatoon, even if that is another month or more.

 

Touring BC wine country

Upon returning home from five days in the Okanagan I wondered to myself “why haven’t I visited here before?” My wife and I have traveled to some very interesting wine areas in the world – Sonoma and Napa in California, Champagne and Burgundy earlier this year even – so there really isn’t an excuse why we waited this long to visit the premier wine region in our own country. Making up for lost time, one of the first wineries we visited in the Okanagan was Summerhill Pyramid Winery, just outside of Kelowna.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

This visit was as much for the view from their winery over Okanagan Lake and to have lunch at their restaurant. Luckily for us, we had a beautiful day to sit outside on their patio to have our meal.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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How far away is Kamloops?

We woke up in Kelowna on an August Sunday morning without a firm idea of what we were going to do that day. Over a coffee at the hotel, the plan started to form around the idea of having brunch in Kamloops. My wife had found a really interesting place with a number of delicious sounding gluten-free menu items, and since I drag her to enough sandwich and beer places on our travels, I was 100% in on this one.

We built a loose idea of an itinerary before hitting the road. There was no debate on stop one – the Kangaroo Creek Farm was less than twenty minutes up the highway and was a bargain at $5 to roam around and play with animals. I mean, how could anyone not want to cuddle baby ‘roos?

Kangaroo Creek Farm

I got to hold a baby wallaroo named Huggy Bear who was less than four months old. So cute, I almost wanted to carry him back to the car and drive off with a new member of our family.

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Champagne trip to Reims

When my wife and I visited France back in 2009, we stuck close to Paris with the exception of a very memorable, and emotional, day trip to Normandy to see Juno Beach. On this return trip to one of our favourite countries we decided that our day tripping should be all about wine. Having already had an exceptional day touring Burgundy, our second wine-related day took us to the city of Reims in the heart of the Champagne region.

After an early morning high speed train ride from Paris, a quick bus ride and walk took us right to the front gates of our first Champagne house tour at Pommery.

Domaine Pommery

One of the unexpected features of Pommery that made this a great stop was the art both inside and outside their facilities. From an oversized fruit tree on their dramatic front lawn, to a Daniel Firman work depicting an elephant balancing on its trunk inside the chateau, we were engaged and entertained even before our tour began.

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A day in Burgundy

If I had to pick one wine, and only one wine to drink over the remainder of my days, it would be a toss up between pinot noir from Burgundy or the effervescent bubbly from Champagne. Coincidentally, on our visit to France this spring, we spent a couple of days touring these respective wine regions to help me solve this dilemma to which there really isn’t a wrong answer. I’ll leave the account of a day in and around Reims tasting world class Champagne for another post… this one is all about a spectacular day spent in Burgundy.

We took an early morning train from Lyon to Beaune and waiting for us at the quaint station was Patrick, an expert on all things Burgundy. He was our guide for the day and after some quick hellos and a sketch of our plans, we got into the back of his car to make our way to Auxey-Duresses for our first tasting and visit with a winemaker.

It couldn’t have been a better start to the day. Michel Prunier warmly welcomed us into his small facility. Although Patrick was available to translate where needed, Michel spoke in French slowly and we followed along except for the most technical of winemaking jargon. Michel explained his winery and its 5 generation family history and spent some time showing us the small batch of bubbly he makes each year in addition to his pinot noir.

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Three great meals

Admittedly, it’s not too difficult to simply stumble upon a great meal in either Paris or Lyon. With even a half an ounce of planning, you’ll have hundreds and hundreds of options at your fingertips. Our challenge was a little steeper as our plans need to be gluten free for one of us (thankfully, not me… I’ll take the entire bread plate, thanks). Over a two week period, we made three reservations and each gave us an outstanding dining experience.

Chez Marcel, Paris

You would walk right past this place if you weren’t paying attention. It is a quaint 30 seat bistro tucked just off the busy Boulevard Raspail. We arrived a few minutes before our 7:30 reservation and waited for the owner to arrive and let us in to the restaurant. As soon as we stepped foot inside, we knew we would be in for a great meal.

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A perfectly French day

March 17, 2017 – Lyon, France

It might be hard to have a better, or more “French” day than I’m having. I slept in (good start). Had a leisurely coffee and a pain au chocolate at a cafe a few blocks from our lovely hotel. Then it was off for a morning of exploring the Croix-Rousse neighbourhood including the almost 100 vendor daily market of fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses. I turned some market purchases and a baguette into a perfectly acceptable picnic on a bench overlooking the neighbourhood square all the while sipping on a just before noon Kronenbourg beer. And of course, the meal ending strawberries from Provence were divine. A short break later, I had an un-St. Patrick’s Day afternoon by enjoying a Hoegaarden on a patio of a cafe that had no traces of leprechauns or green beer. And tonight, another picnic, this one in Place des Célestins with a bottle of pinot noir we brought back from our day trip to Burgundy.

France, I like what you do to me while I’m on vacation.

Oregon pinots before France

I made a very difficult decision while visiting Portland in February. On a rainy afternoon, I gave up a precious afternoon beer tasting opportunity to visit Oregon Wines on Broadway to sample three higher end pinot noirs. Rough life eh?

If I could only drink one red wine the rest of my life, it would be pinot noir. At its best, its delicacy, earthiness and balance appeals to my senses. I’ve always thought of pinot noir as one of the truest expressions of wine and the expert craftsmanship that goes into it. Settling into an empty wine bar on a weekday around lunch, I was ready to sample the best of Oregon with a tasting consisting of three outstanding examples of the state’s signature grape.

Pinot noir tasting in Portland

I started with the J. Christopher Dundee Hills (2013). It was very cherry forward and I immediately noticed a bit of bottle age on this one and a touch more heat from the alcohol than a prototypical pinot. It may have been due to the rain pelting the window as I sampled it, but I quite enjoyed the extra bit of burn of this one going down. It was very pleasant and an easy sipper. My unrefined palate would say this is a great pinot for a fall day.

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Slowly becoming Sevillanos

Being in Spain last fall was a lesson in slowing down. Seville in particular was the perfect backdrop for a slower paced vacation. So while we made the rounds in Seville – a soccer match, some flamenco, the Plaza de Toros and the Metropol Parasol to name a few – a lot of my favourite memories are from fairly pedestrian activities and from just savouring being in Seville.

On our first night in the city, after leaving a flamenco show, we swung by our apartment, picked up some drinks and snacks, and headed for the Plaza del Salvador.

Iglesia del Salvador

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A meal with a view

When I pulled into Sooke, BC, toward the end of my day long road trip around Vancouver Island, I knew I was in for something special.   Down the hill from the main road through the town and perched just above the Strait of Juan de Fuca is the Sooke Harbour House.   This award winning restaurant and hotel has long been on my bucket list, and when I knew I was going to be in British Columbia this past April, I arranged my plans around dining here, going so far as to make a reservation four months in advance.

I arrived a bit early for my reservation so I could wander around their picturesque property.   After living through a winter unlike any before, it took some head shaking to realize I was standing in a fully in bloom garden in April.

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