Exploring public art in Austin

Aside from the baking hot temperatures and the smell of barbeque wafting around what seemed like every corner, I didn’t feel like I was deep in the heart of Texas during my Austin stay.   The city felt beautifully out of place compared with all of my preconceived notions of “Texas-ness”.  In exploring a few parts of the city on foot, the vibrant and plentiful public art reinforced the “Keep Austin Weird” vibe that I fell for within an hour of first arriving.

Right across the street from my motel on South Congress Avenue was the “I love you so much” mural on the wall of Jo’s Coffee (a place I would later laze away a few hours with a book).  The simple mural by Amy Cook was a scrawled love letter to her partner Liz (the owner of Jo’s Coffee).  Simple and profound, I felt the love directed to me each time I walked past.

"I love you so much" at Jo's

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The Bernabéu

I’ve been to Yankee Stadium and Fenway Park.  To Soldier Field.  To the Air Canada Centre in Toronto – the homes of some of the most storied North American sports teams.   Although the league schedule for Spain’s top soccer league didn’t line up for me getting to see Real Madrid play, I did make sure to visit their historic ground, the Estadio Santiago Bernabéu.

Real Madrid offers a truly remarkable tour of their stadium.  You buy a ticket, walk inside, then get to guide yourself through the tour with no one shuffling you along quicker than you want.   Stop one on the tour is way up in the cheap seats for a panoramic view, or as I would call it, the view that my limited funds would likely procure if I bought a ticket.  Wow.

View of Santiago Bernabéu

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Texas craft beers and bars

One week in Texas, split between Houston and Austin, gave me plenty of opportunities to sample a number of craft beers from the state.  The refreshment of the beverages (and the air conditioning in the bars) was much needed as the temperatures were pushing into the 30s the entire trip.  Here are a few of the beers I got to try and a couple of the craft beer bars I visited in Houston and Austin:

Mongoose Versus Cobra – Houston

On the way back from a Sunday afternoon Houston Texans game, I got off the train a couple of stops early so I could pop into Mongoose Versus Cobra.    This was my kind of bar – very laid back and mellow.  Here I tried two Texas beers – on the left, an Uncle Billy’s Lazy Day Lager, and on the right, a Buffalo Bayou 1836.  I liked the 1836 the best with its malty taste and dry finish.  It was unique and reminded me of a cross between a British bitters ale and an American pale ale.  I couldn’t resist perhaps the perfect beer snack of chicharrón with chile sauce, salt and lime.

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Last morning in Houston

When I traveled to Houston back in late September, I spent most of my short visit attending sporting events and sampling local craft beers in a couple of nice bars. As my last day in Houston was dawning I realized that I hadn’t seen much of the city.  Against a backdrop of ominous clouds, I took the train out to Hermann Park with exploration on my mind.

Off the train and just inside Hermann park, I came upon the Mary Gibbs and Jesse H Jones Reflection Pool, the most prominent feature in the 450 acre park:

Mary Gibbs and Jesse H Jones Reflection Pool

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More football in Texas

When Sunday morning rolled around in Houston and I pulled myself out of bed, I realized I was heading to my third sporting event in the city in just a touch under twenty four hours.    My plan was to spend the morning tailgating outside the stadium, but I had to put that idea aside as I was shaking off some sort of bug that I had picked up the previous day.  Luckily, I was feeling human enough to make it out to the stadium for a little bit of pregame poking around, if not for hours of beers and barbecue (still a little bit sad about that).

On a quick walk around the stadium, I noticed that people really take their tailgating seriously.  Most had a full smoker of some sort set up which made it easily the best smelling parking lot I’d ever been to.  There were also a lot of neat games and booths set up by the team – you could measure your wingspan relative to JJ Watt and run an officially timed 40 metre dash.

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Football night in Texas

So after about eight hours en route to Houston and after taking in an Astros game downtown, I had enough time to grab a quick bite and head to my first ever US college football game.   This was something I wanted to experience, not just because I’m a football fan, but because I’ve always thought that it would be a unique slice of American culture.  So, in Texas where football is a religion like hockey is in Canada, I walked into the stadium at the University of Houston for a Saturday night game between the hometown Cougars and Texas State on a perfect night for football:

First view in the stadium

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Moments in Spain

I have found that, for me at least, the perfect travel moments are elusive and quiet, yet end up being the memories that I cherish most when I return home. Those moments will almost never occur if I try to plan or architect them, but usually just sneak up on me, most times when I least expect them.

This trip to Spain had some remarkable moments, the majority of which had nothing to do with the litany of beautiful sights in Seville, Madrid and Cordoba. I got chills standing with 32,000 Real Betis football fans while they sang to their team before a late Saturday night kickoff.  I was drawn to an open window of our apartment in Seville by the sound of three girls practicing their flamenco steps in the cobblestone street two stories below. I’ll always smile recalling the joy on my wife’s face when she could order liberally from a gluten-free tapas menu of a little place in Madrid that had some of the best food of our entire trip.  I was riveted by the scene of a man watching over his grandson as he fed pigeons in Plaza Mayor, and to him turning a blind eye when the boy would eat his bread from the ground before the birds could get to it.  Simple things.

Plaza Mayor, Madrid

Spain got its tentacles into me, slowing me down and making me savour so many simple pleasures: an afternoon glass of cava on the roof of our Seville apartment, sleeping in until well past noon to the sounds of Spanish conversations from the streets below, or the taste of a perfect slice of Iberico ham melting away on my tongue.  Yes, there were a lot of ham moments.  And olives.  Oh those olives!

This was a trip I had dreamt about for years, and after two spectacular weeks in Spain, I left compelled to come back to explore so much more of this beautiful, unique country.  I’ll write much, much more in the weeks and months ahead…

Airport to an Astros game

When I decided to start my trip to Texas in Houston it was with baseball and football schedules in mind.  The plan was to fly into town midday on Saturday in plenty of time for a Saturday night ballgame.  Then a playoff race between the two teams I was slated to see conspired to have the game moved up six hours for national television.  With a few strokes of luck, my flight was on time, there wasn’t too much traffic on the way in from the airport and after quickly dropping my bags at the hotel, I arrived in my seat moments before first pitch between the Rangers and the Astros.

Getting ready for first pitch in Houston

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