Mmmmm, San Diego beer

Full disclosure – I’ve starting writing this piece about the wonderful craft beer I had an  opportunity to sample in San Diego while sitting at my “home” craft beer bar in Halifax.  It’s a case of Nova Scotia craft beer fuelling some writing about beer.

Whenever I visit a new place, that city’s craft beer breweries and bars jump to the top of the must visit list for me.  In San Diego, seven days would be nowhere near enough time to sample all I wanted to, especially considering some of this trip was work related and needed my full attention.   After enjoying a Karl Strauss mosaic ale at a Padres game (my opinion: that might be the perfect ballgame beer), I visited their brewery just a few blocks from my hotel to try some of their other brews.   Of the four samples, I really enjoyed the slightly spicy Windansea Wheat and one of their iconic beers, the Red Trolley Ale:

Karl Strauss beer tasting

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Spain, soon

I have been dreaming about visiting Spain for as long as I have had the travel bug. When the time came to commit to a “big trip” this year, after years of just missing the cut, Spain won out (sorry Ireland, maybe next year). Other trips over the past few years had materialized to push Spain one more year further out, but not this time. We finally found a reasonable airfare, something that had eluded us, and with Madrid as our arrival and departure location, we have planned a visit to the capital as well as south into Andalucía.

This trip will be at a slower pace than the last few European adventures my wife and I have been on. I’m in need of a couple of weeks lived like the Spanish – rise late and warm up to your day’s activities, take frequent breaks; set aside time for an afternoon nap; base your day around eating and drinking that will stretch late into the night.  That’s the kind of pace I’m looking for.  We have secured charming apartments in Madrid and Seville, the latter having a wonderful rooftop terrace for us to look out over the city while sharing a bottle (or two) of wine. The itinerary is just coming together now and I’m excited to take in a Real Betis football match alongside some of the most passionate fans in all of Europe, to do some food exploring in the historic markets of Madrid, to tour the Mezquita in Córdoba, to settle into cozy flamenco bars in the wee hours and to liberally and enthusiastically throw myself head first into Spanish tapas culture.

Here’s to two weeks in Spain.  I’ll be using all my willpower to not wish away the time until our flight.

A week of tacos

I have written many times about my love of really good tacos, so it will come as no surprise that before leaving for San Diego I had a long list of taco places I wanted to visit.  In particular, I wanted to try what might be the official food of San Diego, the fish taco.  So, wasting no time, on our first night in the city my wife and I made our way to the downtown location of Puesto, a restaurant that consistently wins the “best fish taco” award in a couple of San Diego’s alternative weekly papers.

Another great thing about Puesto, and really all of the taco joints we would hit, is they offered great gluten free selections for my wife.  Unfortunately, no Baja fish tacos (they’re normally breaded and fried), but she didn’t mind as she enjoyed (and happily shared!) her plate of chicken verde, carnitas and vegetable tacos (picture on the left).   That drink in that picture was a mango margarita and hands down the best drink of the entire trip.   My fish tacos (picture on the right) were incredible.  The fish was perfectly fresh cod, battered using blood orange beer and topped with cabbage, chile cream, avocado and tomatillo roja.   One night in, and I would have agreed to live in San Diego just to keep eating these tacos.

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Giraffes, elephants and hippos, oh my!

My wife and I have a travel agreement in place – wherever we travel in a calendar year, she can pick one (and only one) zoo to visit.   It’s not that I don’t like zoos, but usually the idea of dedicating a day to wander around looking at animals isn’t normally on the top of my list.   I love animals, but for me, once I’ve seen a giraffe, I don’t really need to see more giraffes for a while.

On our trip to San Diego, the rule about zoos went out the window.  It’s arguably the finest zoo in the world, and I was just as excited as my wife to visit.  We planned to make a full day of it, so we arrived just as the zoo was opening.  My wife had mapped out all of the stops she wanted to make during the day, and her itinerary had  us taking the aerial cable car to the far end of the zoo to start our exploring.   Not only was it a smart logistical decision, but it gave a great view of the zoo and also of the city of San Diego to the south.

Cable car over the San Diego Zoo

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Crossing the border

First things first – dispel what you’ve likely heard about Tijuana.  It’s true that it is a city that saw a remarkable amount of horrific violence in its not too distant past.   It’s also true that it can be a clichéd day trip location to drink bad tequila, buy some trinkets and pose for pictures wearing a sombrero.  But there’s a lot more to Tijuana than the shadow of its history and what can be found in its overly touristy areas.

When I found out I’d be traveling to San Diego, I wanted to visit Tijuana as I find it hard to be so close to an international border and not pop over for a look.   I’m also intrigued by Mexican culture and food and couldn’t pass up the opportunity for even a brief taste, both literally and figuratively.  As I read more about Mexico’s fifth largest city the pull became too strong to resist.  I found an incredible local guide, Derrik, from Turista Libre, and my wife and I committed to a day trip as part of our week on the west coast.

We took a morning train south from San Diego, met our guide and walked across the border into Mexico.  No document checks, no wait… we just swung through a few turnstiles guarded by some folks with impressive looking guns strapped across their backs and presto, we were in Mexico.   Our day had a loose plan of a market visit, spending some time on a beach, a bit of touring the city and a meal of tacos.  Had I known how good those tacos were going to be, I might have considered just heading there straightaway.

Stop one was the Mercado Hidalgo, the largest market in Tijuana.  After a quick stop for a taste of traditional Mexican coffee simmering in a pot on the stove, we entered the market and were most enthused by the food vendors.  We walked past mounds of moles (my mind was spinning with what I could do with these):

Moles Tijuana market

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Root, root, root for the home team

How’s this for a laid back Sunday on the west coast – sleep in, go for a long beach walk (with a delicious mid-stroll stop for a feed of crab), then an early evening baseball game… pretty good vacation day eh?  I’m always excited to visit a new stadium, and Petco Park in San Diego is one of the nicest I’ve been to.   Like usual, we arrived early to wander around, but unfortunately, there was no batting practice to watch.   As you can see by my face, that didn’t faze me too much.

Me and my wife at the Padres game

Like most of the newer ballparks, Petco doesn’t really have a bad seat anywhere.  At least on our exploring, we didn’t come across one.   Deep down the first base line, these seats would be ok by me:

Petco Park from right field seats

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The first of many beaches

When I think back on the week I spent with my wife in and around San Diego, I’ll remember the beaches the most.    I’ve always felt drawn to the water, and that place where land meets ocean has always had a hold on me.   After spending the partial day we arrived in San Diego on a city tour and eating tacos (I’ll be writing much more on tacos later!), we spent a lazy Sunday morning in bed with good coffee and the New York Times before deciding to head north of the city to Pacific Beach.

With cloudy skies and the temperature only barely touching 20°C, the normal Sunday crowds were nowhere to be found, giving us more than enough space to enjoy the sound of the waves of the Pacific Ocean lapping up on shore.

Pier at Pacific Beach

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Victoria: Two days in pictures

I really enjoyed my first visit to Victoria back in April.   It was a very picturesque city, especially under two days of blue skies and warm temperatures.    I didn’t do any formal tours or visit any museums or galleries, instead, I chose to do some urban exploring.   I gave my wandering a bit of structure by visiting some public art installations within walking distance of my downtown hotel, but outside of that, took it pretty easy for two days.  Here are some of the sights and activities from around Victoria that caught my eye over two days.

Although not in Victoria, the journey there on the ferry from Vancouver gave me gorgeous views throughout the ninety minute trip:

The water plays a key part in the ambiance of Victoria.  This is the inner harbour with the city’s downtown on the other side:

Inner Harbour, Victoria

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