Streets of Old San Juan

Immediately on entering Old San Juan it feels like you’ve been transported somewhere else.   Many of your senses won’t tell you that you’re in the Caribbean or that you’re actually and (though I know it to be a fact)  almost unbelievably in the United States.  The narrow cobblestone streets and the colonial Spanish architecture of the seven square blocks in this area of San Juan is an oasis juxtaposed against the rest of a hectic, large city.

All of my senses were completely overwhelmed by the streetscapes in Old San Juan.  From the vibrantly coloured buildings to the changing hues of the cobblestones as they became wet during a morning thundershower, then dried in the afternoon sun.  There were palm trees, lazy stray cats and dogs and Latin rhythms coming from behind walls only inches off the sidewalks down narrow alleys.   Strangers huddled tightly together under awnings to stay dry during the frequent quick downpours.  The scents that wafted out of restaurants, full of garlic and onion,  hung in the humid, almost oppressive late June air.

This part of the city was achingly beautiful in a way I haven’t seen before in my travels. Here are a few snaps from the streets of Old San Juan that for me, capture at least the pure physical beauty of this historic area.

Chef for a day

A big part of the draw to visit Puerto Rico was its cuisine.  The first time I heard about mofongo I made a mental note that I would jump at an opportunity to visit the island.  Fast forward a few years and the combination of looking for a honeymoon destination and some very cheap airfares had us headed to San Juan.

For our first full day in San Juan we had booked a cooking class in Isla Verde to learn some of the secrets of Puerto Rican cuisine.  That in and of itself was something to look forward to.  Then we showed up to the open air kitchen where our class was to take place.  This was a kitchen with a serious view of the beach and the Atlantic Ocean:

View from the kitchen

Pretty nice eh?  The view the other way wasn’t too shabby either:

View from the kitchen

Continue reading

Vancouver from a few angles

Vancouver is a city that treats you to incredible views from just about anywhere.  Do you like to look at mountains?  Check.  Modern architecture?  Check.  Water?  Check.  Public art sculptures?  Check.  Parks and green spaces?  Check and check.  Over eight days I got to see beautiful Vancouver from a number of different angles.  Here are a few of my favourites.

From above looking toward the Lion’s Gate Bridge and North Vancouver:

Looking toward North Vancouver

Again, from above.  This time out toward BC Place Stadium and Yaletown with Kitsilano off in the distance:

Looking toward Yaletown

Continue reading

Capilano Suspension Bridge

Yes, it’s an overpriced admission ticket, but sometimes you just have to experience something that every other tourist wants to do.  With the iconic image of the Capilano Suspension Bridge in our minds, the allure of a walk in the woods was too much to pass up for our last morning in Vancouver. An easy bus ride had us at the gates in under a half hour from downtown.  Before the masses arrived, we had the bridge “relatively” to ourselves:

Suspension bridge

I don’t think the picture does it justice.  It’s a lot longer than it looks – 450 ft long and 230 feet above the river below – this isn’t for the weak of heart.   On the way across, we stopped in the middle to take in the view:

View from the bridge

Continue reading

The best Vancouver lunches

Food trucks, high end cuisine and great hole in the wall places to grab a bite to eat.  Vancouver had it all.  Although it took me until the last two days of our trip to get to the final two places on my “must eat” list, they were well worth the wait.

Meat & Bread – As my conference wrapped up on Friday at noon, only a small detour back to the apartment got me to Meat & Bread.  Each day they serve four different sandwiches, including a sandwich of the day.  I really didn’t ponder the menu because there was only one sandwich I came for – the porchetta.

I saw this place on Food Network a few weeks before the trip and there was no doubt about what I would order.  Here’s the porchetta being carved as I waited in line to order:

Meat and Bread

Continue reading

My kind of Alibi

I have a soft spot for beer bars.  I’ve been to a few really great ones recently – Bar Volo and the Rebel House in Toronto, Elysian Fields in Seattle, Wynkoop in Denver and La Taberna Lúpulo in San Juan to name but a few.  So when plans for Vancouver came together, I got a lot of recommendations that the Alibi Room was not to be missed.

What great recommendations.

We sat down and I was presented with a two page menu of beer on tap.  The selection was overwhelming (and exciting!).  Knowing I was going to be sampling a few beers, I started by selecting the Phillips Brewing Wheatking Hefeweizen and Upright Brewing Engelberg Pilsner.  Both wonderful, it was a great start to a sampling session:

Me with my first two samples Continue reading

First impressions of Old San Juan

There is a patina to Old San Juan that is unmistakeable. I haven’t been anywhere that was reminiscent of the seven square blocks that was our home away from home. Some combination of the heat, the tropical rains that would appear for brief interludes and the age of this part of San Juan create a beauty that is very unique. The architecture, food and people left a mark on both of us and it was a perfect backdrop for a honeymoon.

Calle del Cristo

Over five days we took a visit to El Yunque rainforest, did a Puerto Rican cooking class overlooking the Atlantic Ocean (where I started a love affair with fried plantains), endlessly wandered cobblestone streets, ate great food lovingly prepared and had more than our share of mojitos. We also spent time sitting in the interior open-air courtyard of our hotel reading, listening to the rain, drinking Spanish wine and reminiscing.

It was a great first trip as a married couple. More pictures and stories to share in the coming weeks…

Eight years

Tonight I will marry the woman who means the world to me, the woman with whom I am beyond fortunate to share my life.  We’ve had eight years full of experiences.  We became aunt and uncle to two very amazing kids. We’ve seen our respective careers change. We’ve supported each other as we pursued accounting designations a few years apart.  Although it is only tonight that we will we be exchanging formal vows, we’ve lived the “sickness and health”, and “better and worse”.  Like everyone, we have had our share of ups and downs and I can honestly say there’s no one with whom I’d  rather share the highs or have in my corner for the lows.  My love has opened my eyes to a wealth of new experiences, constantly encourages me to learn more and seek out my passions and fills my days with laughter.

These recent weeks have had both of us reminiscing on our relationship with many of our fondest memories relating to travel. Together we set foot in Europe for the first time in 2006.  Before we could make it to our hotel after landing in Brussels, a lost passport incident had us detained by police for a few hours.  Making it through that together ignited an unyielding passion to travel.  We’ve hot-air ballooned over northern California, relaxed in the Blue Lagoon in Iceland and first discovered mojitos in Amsterdam after a Mexican family opened their restaurant and ex-pat party to two hungry and tired Canadians.  We have cried in a Canadian war cemetery in Normandy, tailgated before a Bears game in Chicago and stood on top of our first mountain in Switzerland.    We’ve eaten jerk chicken in Montego Bay, sampled the finest espresso in Milan, and picnicked on French cheese and wine alongside the Seine.  We have stood together in stunned silence at the beauty of Lake Louise, sipped tequila in Mexico, and sailed through the magnificent fjords of western Norway.  We’ve perched ourselves on the edge of the Grand Canyon, driven the Sea to Sky Highway in British Columbia and taken in an afternoon Yankees game in the Bronx.  Fifteen countries and well more than 100,000km later, neither of us would trade our travel experiences for anything.

Us in Reykjavik

Us in Reykjavik, Iceland. August 2012.

In a few hours, in front of our families, I’ll declare my affection and devotion to my partner in life and my best friend. Rings will be exchanged, good wine and food will be shared, and many, many, many stories will be told in celebration.  What’s first for us as an officially married couple?  A trip of course.  Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, and another stamp in our passports.

Seems like a perfect way to start married life.