This year’s big trip

I’ve been fortunate over the past few years to visit a number of interesting places. Many of those have been short stay, primarily work-related trips.  But by tacking on a day or two of vacation I’ve been able to see some interesting things and have some wonderful experiences that I cherish.  With that said, there’s nothing that compares to a “big trip”.  For us, that’s usually a once a year thing when our work and vacation schedules can be aligned for a two week escape.  Last year it was a four country tour of Scandinavia, the year before had us wandering around Switzerland and down to Milan.  This year our big trip is a two week jaunt to the Czech Republic with an ambitious 40 hour side trip to Vienna thrown in because we’ll be “in the neighbourhood”.

The Czech Republic has been high on our must visit list for a while.  We’ve rented an apartment in Prague for two weeks and will be exploring the city at a leisurely pace.  What’s on our itinerary?  A couple of day trips –  one to Terezín to learn about its horrific history during WWII, another one (perhaps more of a pilgrimage for me) to Plzeň, the birthplace of pilsner beer.  An AC Sparta Praha soccer match gets us to our first game after all our previous trips failed to align with European soccer schedules.  There’s a night at the opera, some castles, a few museums, and a lot of leisurely exploring, hanging out in parks and cafes, and drinking in what will be spectacularly beautiful surroundings.

Our last couple of big trips were less about food and drink than normal.  This one will be very different.  I’m excited to try some traditional Czech cuisine – in particular, pork knee, roast goose, goulash, dumplings and the pungent domestic cheese, Olomoucké tvarůžky.    As a beer lover, my travel map is littered with pins for hopeful visits to many tankovna pubs so I can sample the finest Czech beer at its unpasteurized and unfiltered best.  In Vienna I hope to try some of the world’s best coffee, have a piece (or 3) of sachertorte, and spend an evening at a heuriger on the outskirts of the city sampling the young, fresh white wines produced on the hills of the Danube.

Here’s to this year’s big trip which can’t get here fast enough!

An unexpected craft beer bar

Among the things I look for when visiting any city is a craft beer bar.  When I pulled up Google for Old San Juan, I really wasn’t expecting to find much.  Puerto Rico is rum country and their national beer is a pretty standard Caribbean thirst quencher with little to distinguish it.  Imagine my surprise and delight to learn about La Taberna Lupulo, a craft beer bar located about three blocks from my hotel in Old San Juan.

On a lazy Saturday afternoon with the temperatures hitting about 35°C it was time for a pint or two.  Pulling up a stool at the bar, my first selection was a witbier – Lost Coast Great White from California.  Delicious and refreshing on such a hot day:

Lost Coast Great White witbier

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My kind of Alibi

I have a soft spot for beer bars.  I’ve been to a few really great ones recently – Bar Volo and the Rebel House in Toronto, Elysian Fields in Seattle, Wynkoop in Denver and La Taberna Lúpulo in San Juan to name but a few.  So when plans for Vancouver came together, I got a lot of recommendations that the Alibi Room was not to be missed.

What great recommendations.

We sat down and I was presented with a two page menu of beer on tap.  The selection was overwhelming (and exciting!).  Knowing I was going to be sampling a few beers, I started by selecting the Phillips Brewing Wheatking Hefeweizen and Upright Brewing Engelberg Pilsner.  Both wonderful, it was a great start to a sampling session:

Me with my first two samples Continue reading

A picnic in Copenhagen

When we started planning our Scandinavian trip we knew we were going to be taking it easy on restaurants given the general expense of eating out in Copenhagen.  Luckily, we had a pretty comprehensive grocery store close to the hotel and a wonderful organic bakery with a selection of gluten free items made fresh every day (Naturbageriet).  We also came to discover the very new market-based food hall, Torvehallerne, that was immediately between our main train station and our hotel (how lucky!):

Torvehallerne Continue reading

Last Day in Seattle

December 3 – Given Seattle’s reputation for coffee, I scouted out Caffe Umbria with a location close to my hotel for a morning cappuccino and croissant.  Easily the best coffee I had in Seattle.  This is a delicious way to start a day:

I grabbed a bag of coffee beans to bring back to Halifax with me and started to make my way to the Experience Music Project (EMP) museum.  For about the next half hour, I feel like I descended into a series of Simpsons episodes.  First, to get to EMP I need to take a ride on a monorail (and as it banks into the final turn heading past the museum, I can almost hear Lyle Lanley himself running off with bags of money after skimping on safety standards):

Then I lay eyes on the EMP and its Frank Gehry design harkens me back to his design of Springfield’s concert hall / Montgomery Burns state prison:

Simpsons references aside, this part of Seattle feels like time passed it by a bit.  Seattle Center and the Space Needle came into being for the 1962 World’s Fair.  Maybe it’s the chilly, grey morning I’m here, but it feels like it has seen better days.   That being said, the Space Needle itself is a pretty impressive architectural landmark:

Here, the Space Needle and its reflection in the side of the EMP:

The EMP is one of the most interesting museums I’ve been to in my travels.  There’s a bunch of displays on music history, especially focused on key artists of the Pacific Northwest (Jimi Hendrix, Nirvana and the other “grunge” acts of the 90s).   One of the things I really enjoyed was a display of electric guitars through the ages, including this 1952 Gibson Les Paul:

As a bit of a collector of concert set lists, I liked this one – the set list from the last Nirvana show ever (in Germany):

One of the best features of this museum were the interactive rooms where you could play instruments.  Here’s a picture of one of the “pods” of instruments – guitar, bass and drums.  After some interactive instruction on how to play the instrument, you could team up with others in the pod to play parts of a song.  For the pod I tried, I got to play rhythm guitar for Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit” in concert with a bass player and a drummer who had just “learned” their instruments:

This impressive sculpture (“If VI was IX: Roots and Branches”) in the main hallway of the music-related displays let’s you hear the permutations of the sounds it can produce:

There were also great exhibits on the making of the movie “Avatar” and an installation on horror movies (with displays featuring costumes and props from the classics).  The best part of the horror movie installation was that you could orchestrate the music and sounds in the room (I enjoyed a few minutes of adding screams and chainsaws to an orchestral piece which had a few folks looking at the displays wondering what was going on) Overall, it was a wonderful interactive museum and a great place to spend a few hours on a chilly overcast day.

The rest of my last vacation day in Seattle was about trying some drink and food.  Making my may back to downtown Seattle, I stopped at Elysian Fields for lunch and tried their famously-entitled “Men’s Room Red” ale.  Delicious:

On my way to supper, I make a quick stop in for happy hour at 106 Pine, a wine shop and tasting bar featuring a solid selection of Washington state wines.  Here’s a Merlot that took some of the chill out of the evening:

From there, it was on to Andaluca for a Spanish-inspired small plates meal.   First course: Broken Egg Papas Frites with chorizo and roasted mushrooms (and really, I could have just ordered this two more times and gone back to the hotel extremely happy):

Second course (complete with a warning that eating raw seafood may be a health hazard): Spicy Calamari bruschetta with saffron aioli – exceptionally fresh and very spicy/hot:

A very interesting Washington state Pinot Noir with strong hints of licorice.  Unusual and interesting and quite nice for a cold night:

Last course: Paella with chicken, chorizo, grilled prawn, harissa butter and saffron:

Fully warmed up from the inside, I took in some of the Christmas lights in the shopping district of Seattle before heading back to the hotel.  Among the pictures, the first and last ones below are of the Macy’s star and Christmas tree at Westlake Center:

Unfortunately, that marked the end of the vacation part of the trip.  I did come away with some perspectives on Seattle in the course of just under 3 days:

1. Seattle is a very friendly city.  People smile, engage in conversation and really seem to be down to earth folk.  The west coast lifestyle is something I’m finding resonates with me.

2. The food culture in Seattle is something I could really get used to:  Fresh seafood and variety like I haven’t seen in other coastal places including here in Halifax; Great local red wines; Enormous selection of microbrews across the spectrum of styles; A deep appreciation and care for the quality of food;  It would be great to shop, cook and eat here.

3. In some respects, Seattle is like many other larger cities.  But on its doorstep is immense natural beauty – lakes and rivers, mountains and pine trees.   If/when I get back to this area, I’ll spend more time exploring what’s around this area.  I could easily imagine this being a great place to live for a few years.