Day trip to Córdoba

I have a bit of a compulsion to include a few day trips on any of the longer trips I take.  If I’m within a two hour train ride of somewhere interesting, I always feel a pull to loop in one extra place or one more location to explore.  On our trip to Spain last fall, we had all kinds of options for day trips out of both Madrid and Seville.  Consciously, we decided to ease up on the day trips so we could kick back a bit more than on previous trips.  For me, there was one day trip that couldn’t be sacrificed – a visit to Córdoba while we were staying in Seville.

The pull to Córdoba was to visit the Mezquita – the religious site that has switched back and forth over the last 1300 years from a Catholic basilica, to a half mosque half basilica, to a full mosque and now to a Roman Catholic church. A straightforward morning train ride from Seville had us in beautiful Córdoba in under an hour.  We made our way to the Mezquita as our first stop and entered the Patio de los Naranjos, the inner courtyard of the site.

Inner courtyard of the Mezquita

Continue reading

Searching out craft beer in Spain

Spain and craft beer.  Not two concepts that you’d immediately place together.  In tapas bars in Madrid and Seville, there would always be one tap, and ordering a beer meant having whatever brand was flowing.  Not that this was a bad thing.  The beer was always ice cold, and while eating salty olives, perfectly sliced ham, or any of the other culinary staples in Spain, it made for a great pairing.   Thirsting for something a little different, over two weeks in Spain, I had a few opportunities to dig a little deeper for a beer culture that is emerging, if still at the fringes.

Thanks to an article by the wonderful travel blog, Bite-Sized Travel (written by a fellow Haligonian!) I was inspired to chart a course of a few craft beer locations and beers in Madrid, Seville and Cordoba.   My first stop was Fábrica Maravillas, less than a 5 minute walk north from the Gran Via metro.  It’s a brewery in the back, small pub in the front kind of place.  I tried two of their beers – the Malasaña (left; named after the neighbourhood in which the brewery is located; a well-balanced American-style piney IPA) and a bitter (right; light and easy drinking).  This was also the start of my love affair with the plump, salty olives of Spain.   The only thing missing from this visit was the pub’s resident pug, who, if he was around, may have enticed me to stay for a third or fourth beer.

Afternoon drinks at Fabrica Maravillas

Continue reading

Moments in Spain

I have found that, for me at least, the perfect travel moments are elusive and quiet, yet end up being the memories that I cherish most when I return home. Those moments will almost never occur if I try to plan or architect them, but usually just sneak up on me, most times when I least expect them.

This trip to Spain had some remarkable moments, the majority of which had nothing to do with the litany of beautiful sights in Seville, Madrid and Cordoba. I got chills standing with 32,000 Real Betis football fans while they sang to their team before a late Saturday night kickoff.  I was drawn to an open window of our apartment in Seville by the sound of three girls practicing their flamenco steps in the cobblestone street two stories below. I’ll always smile recalling the joy on my wife’s face when she could order liberally from a gluten-free tapas menu of a little place in Madrid that had some of the best food of our entire trip.  I was riveted by the scene of a man watching over his grandson as he fed pigeons in Plaza Mayor, and to him turning a blind eye when the boy would eat his bread from the ground before the birds could get to it.  Simple things.

Plaza Mayor, Madrid

Spain got its tentacles into me, slowing me down and making me savour so many simple pleasures: an afternoon glass of cava on the roof of our Seville apartment, sleeping in until well past noon to the sounds of Spanish conversations from the streets below, or the taste of a perfect slice of Iberico ham melting away on my tongue.  Yes, there were a lot of ham moments.  And olives.  Oh those olives!

This was a trip I had dreamt about for years, and after two spectacular weeks in Spain, I left compelled to come back to explore so much more of this beautiful, unique country.  I’ll write much, much more in the weeks and months ahead…