Naples in 24 hours: The pizzas

A mere twenty four hours in Naples, Italy…  This brief stopover on our way from Rome to Sorrento existed for a couple of reasons – to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum in advance of visiting Pompeii a few days later, and for me to try as many pizzas as I could.  I’m proud to say I managed to squeeze in four delicious pizzas, even if for one of them it meant creating a rarely used meal between lunch and dinner.

The first pizza of the visit was a proper street lunch at what many believe to be the world’s first ever pizzeria, Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba.  Back in the mid 1700s this restaurant replaced street food stands and brought their wood fired pizzas out to the street to sell.   Here I am taking my first bite of a Neapolitan pizza:

First taste of Naples pizza from Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba

Continue reading

Pasta on my mind

Without firm dinner plans on our third night in Rome, we looked at a list of interesting restaurants we had compiled that were nearby in the Monti neighbourhood, our home away from home for four nights.  With the help of our hotel staff, we booked 8:30pm reservations, unaware of the deliciousness that was ahead.  Who knew that the most delicious pasta in the world would be mere steps around the corner from our hotel in Rome?

La Carbonara was definitely a locals place.  A few visitors like us had found our way here, but there were a lot of regulars jammed in around us ordering without menus.  Everyone was ordering the pasta and as plate after plate went past to other tables there was no doubt I would be indulging in a pasta course on this night.  With a “when in Rome” mentality, we ordered a bottle of local Lazio wine (Santa Felicita, Cesanese del Piglio 2011).  It was a robust and rustic red… a little rough around the edges until it opened up a bit.  It ended up fitting perfectly with both the food and the ambiance of the restaurant.

Lazio wine

Continue reading

Rome: Let the eating begin

Our Italy trip was, of course, going to be about eating and drinking well for two weeks.   We got that kicked off right away on our first night in Rome.  Knowing we would be jet lagged and coming from a soccer match earlier that afternoon, we planned ahead and made reservations at a restaurant near St. Peter’s Basilica.   If there’s one thing I’ve learned from a decade of serious traveling, it’s that you should plan your first meal post-arrival.  There’s nothing more frustrating as being in a new place, tired and hungry.

Armed with great recommendations from some gluten-free bloggers (thanks!), we arrived at La Soffitta Renovatio about forty five minutes after leaving Stadio Olimpico.   Not personally in need of their gluten free menu, I opted for an Italian beer, a Peroni rossa, to quench my thirst from sitting in the sun all afternoon:

First beer in Rome

Continue reading

Southern eating, Nashville style

With limited time to explore Nashville on my recent trip there, I had to cut a few corners.  One place I wouldn’t cut on was experiencing my share of southern food staples.   I had no shortage of recommendations for great places to eat and foods to try, and I managed to squeeze a lot into my abbreviated time in the city.

On my first afternoon in Nashville, after visiting the Country Music Hall of Fame and taking in some live music downtown going on as part of the Country Music Association Festival, I worked up an appetite for some barbeque and dropped into Jack’s BBQ right on Broadway.  It took me about twenty minutes in line to get to the counter, as this is a popular place:

Jack's BBQ

Continue reading

Rolling with the punches

I recently wrote about how friendly I found Nashville to be.  But the metaphysical Nashville threw some things at me to test my adoration – I had my pinky finger slammed in a cab door when a bellboy closed it in haste, was stuck for the better part of a half hour in a crowded malfunctioning hotel elevator and got trapped in a cab with a cabbie suffering some sort of emotional distress who wanted to take me somewhere other than back to my hotel (the first time in my life I seriously considered jumping out of a moving vehicle).  That would normally sour me on a place, but not with Nashville.

Rolling with the punches is a life lesson travel will attempt to teach you pretty often.  If you can take the inevitable challenges travel throws at you with a dose of good humour, you’ll at least end up with a good story in the end.  After my finger was slammed and stuck in the cab door and the requisite screaming was done, I asked the bellboy for some ice, a towel and two Tylenol, then got the cabbie to take me where I was planning to go.  My finger was all kinds of swollen and sore, but this was my one chance to see the Country Music Hall of Fame.  I was even the recipient of a sympathetic free shot of bourbon at a downtown bar later that day when the bartender caught a glimpse of my finger.

Traveling home from Nashville, I had another opportunity to roll with the punches.  My flight from Philly was cancelled leaving me with ten hours to kill and a strong likelihood my new flight would never take off.  What did I do?  I ticked two things off my “not yet in Philly” list.  First, a cheese steak from Tony Luke’s, and the best one I’ve ever had in the city in my well researched opinion:

Continue reading

Of duck tongues and corn fungus

On this recent trip to Chicago, my eating out was pretty even split between some delicious downmarket staples and a couple of higher end meals.   Chicago is a truly great eating and drinking town, and on this visit I booked restaurant reservations at a couple of places where the menus and reputations for inventive food excited me.  So excited in fact, that for my first night in the city I opted for the allure of a delicious meal over a Blackhawks – Canadiens hockey game.  That’s right – I chose eating over sports.  Maybe I’m becoming more refined as I age…

Night one: The moment the reservation window opened for the Girl & the Goat (I think it was three months before my planned visit), I grabbed one and started scouting the menu.  The idea of sampling a number of small plates was high on my list, and the restaurant’s ability to scale down dishes to suit a solo diner looking to try multiple things made me very excited.   One item that was personally recommended to me by Chef Stephanie Izard on Twitter was the duck tongues.   I’ve got to be honest, I didn’t even know ducks had tongues.  What a delicious discovery!   Here’s what will probably be the best thing I eat all year – duck tongues with crispy wontons, black beans and piri piri:

Duck tongues at Girl & the Goat

Continue reading

Chicago’s delicious iconic foods

By any measure, Chicago is a great food city.  I’ve been there two times now, and have barely scratched the surface of what’s available.   On this last trip, I made a point of rounding out my dance card of Chicago favourites.  First stop shortly after touching down: the Billy Goat Tavern for a “cheezborger”

Drawing its fame jointly as the backdrop to a famous SNL skit as well as the source of the curse that has kept the Cubs out of the World Series, it’s a great humble bar tucked on the lower level of Michigan Avenue.  The cheeseburger (I ordered a triple) was a perfect old fashioned delight and I enjoyed sitting at the bar and talking baseball with the bartender.

Continue reading

A world of food in Toronto

A trip to Toronto for me is always a chance to sample from a world’s worth of cuisines.  On this last visit, I managed to to squeeze in some pretty tasty Spanish, El Salvadorian, Mexican and Venezuelan meals.

Spanish: Patria

The food of Spain isn’t the only allure for me, it’s also the art of tapas that draws me in.  I always struggle picking something from a menu, so tapas works perfectly for me.  Patria, on King St. West, is a relatively new Toronto restaurant and was the place my sister picked for her birthday meal.  The food and wine were lovely, and we had a nice cross section of tapas.   Marcona almonds, chorizo, manchego, pan con tomate, roasted peppers, some interesting Spanish wines, and much more…. good times!

Tapas at Patria

Continue reading

Best eats of 2013

My travels in 2013 gave me some very memorable eating memories.  Here are a few of the many great things I ate while away this year.

San Juan: Mofongo

Having now tried the national dish of Puerto Rico, I wonder where mofongo has been up to this point in my life.  This is a dish made with fried green plantains that are mashed with olive oil, garlic, some fried pig bits and then filled with meat.  While in San Juan I tried two versions.  The one on the left from Cafe Manolin, a 50’s style diner, was filling and delicious as I waited out a torrential downpour.  The one on the right from Restaurante Airenumo was a more upscale version and the best meal of the five days in Puerto Rico.

Vancouver: Vij’s

Vij’s was a bucket list restaurant for me.  For years and years, I’ve known I would eat here once I got to Vancouver.  This meal was perhaps the best overall meal from the year of travel.  Exceptional service and feeling like you were dining in someone’s home only made it that much better.  The food was sublime: flavourful, perfectly spiced, interesting and inventive.  Making this the perfect evening was getting a chance to say hi to Vikram Vij himself.

Continue reading

Philadelphia: 6 days, 4 sandwiches

Six days, four delicious sandwiches.  I’m not sure that’s the right ratio.  It would have been more sandwiches, but there’s just so much great food in Philadelphia that I couldn’t limit myself to having all of my meals squished into a roll or between slices of Italian bread.

My version of sandwichpalooza was of course going to feature a cheesesteak.  My first one of the trip, on the first night in Philly, was had at Campo’s.  I’ve only had one other Campo’s sandwich, and that was at a Flyers game a couple of years back, so I thought I’d try one from their “real” restaurant.  The Cheez Whiz may not look tasty, but trust me, it works really well:

Campos cheesesteak

Continue reading