Beer experiences in Prague

Drinking beer in Prague is a true pleasure.  Great beer is everywhere; you don’t have to seek it out.  Over the course of two weeks I didn’t have a single bad beer or ever spend more than $2 Canadian for a beer in a bar.    These are a few of my favourite beer-related experiences in Prague – the bars, the delicious traditional Czech snacks, and of course, the beers themselves.

First beer in Prague:  After getting settled into our apartment on the first day, we made our way for a much needed meal at Svejk Restaurant U Karla.  We picked this location for the ease of gluten-free eating for my wife for the first night.  A few minutes after sitting down, I got acquainted with my first Pilsner Urquell:

First beer in Prague

What went well with my second beer in Prague?  My first pork knee.  Czechs know how to eat:

Pork knee

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30 hours in Vienna: Monday

After a great first 12 waking hours in Vienna, we were ready for a mere 10 more hours in this stunning city.  Nowhere near enough time to see everything, but more than enough time to put a dent in it and have some fun in the process.

08:30 We started the day with some traditional Viennese pastries for breakfast.  We chose Kurkonditorei Oberlaa as our destination as they have something rather unique in Vienna – gluten free pastries.   My wife was in heaven as she didn’t expect to be able to try any of these delectables.  The gluten free pastries (left and top right in the pictures below) were really good.  In particular, the one on the left below was very similar to a Québécois mille-feuille.  I got one non gluten-free pastry as I had to try an apfelstrudel (bottom right below).  That and a great espresso put me in a wonderful mood to start the day.

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30 hours in Vienna: Sunday

Nothing focuses your energy quite like having only a bit more than one day in a city you’ve always wanted to see.  When we booked our trip to the Czech Republic, we decided to stay in place in Prague and do a few day trips rather than being repeatedly on the move like our last few big trips.  When we took a closer look at a map and saw Vienna a mere four hours away, we knew we had to do a quick trip into Austria to spend one night in the city of music.  So what did 30 hours in Vienna look like?  Here’s how we spent the first 12 hours after arriving just before lunch on the first Sunday in September.

12:30 Before going anywhere, we were in desperate need of a caffeine jolt.  Across from our hotel was a coffee shop whose double espresso and lovely pastry got me ready to start exploring.  With caffeine hitting our respective blood streams, we took a streetcar ride around half of the Ringstraße (ring road).  If you envision the Ringstraße as a clock, we took a trip from 12 to 6 to get near the Vienna State Opera.

13:30 On my list of things to try in Vienna was the famous Sachertorte.  Looking up from the map when we got off the streetcar, Hotel Sacher was right in front of us meaning it was time for the rich chocolate cake (with brandy!) and another double espresso.

I loved this cake.  The chocolate icing was almost fudge-like.  I could have had a second piece, but I was well into a deep caffeine and sugar buzz.  Plus, my understanding wife who can’t eat gluten may not have been so eager to sit and watch me wolf down a second slice.

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Gluten free eating in Prague

Goulash.  Dumplings.  Beer (oh, the beer!).  Rich sauces thickened with bread.   I loved my first experiences with Czech cuisine.  But it’s not the most approachable for visitors with a limited grasp of the Czech language who suffer from Celiac disease.

As I planned this trip with my wife who needs to eat a strict gluten free diet, we honed in on a couple of places to ensure she got a taste of authentic Czech food rather than spending two weeks watching me chow down in restaurants while she ate a salad.  In the heart of Prague, we ate at two great places with dedicated gluten-free menus

Švejk Restaurant U Karla

Not to be confused with other Švejk restaurants around Prague, this one at Křemencova 7 has a separate gluten free menu.  In fact, when you order from that menu, your food arrives at the table with little gluten free flags.  This is a great place with a pub feel and we enjoyed the food the two times we visited.

One of the truly great dishes: beer cheese, wrapped in bacon served with a braided bun (similar to a pretzel).  This was amazing gluten free pub food.  I’ve sampled a lot of gluten free bread products and very, very few I’d order unless I needed to.  This one was mind blowing!  I would have had no idea it was gluten free:

Gluten free beer cheese and pretzel

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This year’s big trip

I’ve been fortunate over the past few years to visit a number of interesting places. Many of those have been short stay, primarily work-related trips.  But by tacking on a day or two of vacation I’ve been able to see some interesting things and have some wonderful experiences that I cherish.  With that said, there’s nothing that compares to a “big trip”.  For us, that’s usually a once a year thing when our work and vacation schedules can be aligned for a two week escape.  Last year it was a four country tour of Scandinavia, the year before had us wandering around Switzerland and down to Milan.  This year our big trip is a two week jaunt to the Czech Republic with an ambitious 40 hour side trip to Vienna thrown in because we’ll be “in the neighbourhood”.

The Czech Republic has been high on our must visit list for a while.  We’ve rented an apartment in Prague for two weeks and will be exploring the city at a leisurely pace.  What’s on our itinerary?  A couple of day trips –  one to Terezín to learn about its horrific history during WWII, another one (perhaps more of a pilgrimage for me) to Plzeň, the birthplace of pilsner beer.  An AC Sparta Praha soccer match gets us to our first game after all our previous trips failed to align with European soccer schedules.  There’s a night at the opera, some castles, a few museums, and a lot of leisurely exploring, hanging out in parks and cafes, and drinking in what will be spectacularly beautiful surroundings.

Our last couple of big trips were less about food and drink than normal.  This one will be very different.  I’m excited to try some traditional Czech cuisine – in particular, pork knee, roast goose, goulash, dumplings and the pungent domestic cheese, Olomoucké tvarůžky.    As a beer lover, my travel map is littered with pins for hopeful visits to many tankovna pubs so I can sample the finest Czech beer at its unpasteurized and unfiltered best.  In Vienna I hope to try some of the world’s best coffee, have a piece (or 3) of sachertorte, and spend an evening at a heuriger on the outskirts of the city sampling the young, fresh white wines produced on the hills of the Danube.

Here’s to this year’s big trip which can’t get here fast enough!

Chef for a day

A big part of the draw to visit Puerto Rico was its cuisine.  The first time I heard about mofongo I made a mental note that I would jump at an opportunity to visit the island.  Fast forward a few years and the combination of looking for a honeymoon destination and some very cheap airfares had us headed to San Juan.

For our first full day in San Juan we had booked a cooking class in Isla Verde to learn some of the secrets of Puerto Rican cuisine.  That in and of itself was something to look forward to.  Then we showed up to the open air kitchen where our class was to take place.  This was a kitchen with a serious view of the beach and the Atlantic Ocean:

View from the kitchen

Pretty nice eh?  The view the other way wasn’t too shabby either:

View from the kitchen

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The best Vancouver lunches

Food trucks, high end cuisine and great hole in the wall places to grab a bite to eat.  Vancouver had it all.  Although it took me until the last two days of our trip to get to the final two places on my “must eat” list, they were well worth the wait.

Meat & Bread – As my conference wrapped up on Friday at noon, only a small detour back to the apartment got me to Meat & Bread.  Each day they serve four different sandwiches, including a sandwich of the day.  I really didn’t ponder the menu because there was only one sandwich I came for – the porchetta.

I saw this place on Food Network a few weeks before the trip and there was no doubt about what I would order.  Here’s the porchetta being carved as I waited in line to order:

Meat and Bread

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My kind of Alibi

I have a soft spot for beer bars.  I’ve been to a few really great ones recently – Bar Volo and the Rebel House in Toronto, Elysian Fields in Seattle, Wynkoop in Denver and La Taberna Lúpulo in San Juan to name but a few.  So when plans for Vancouver came together, I got a lot of recommendations that the Alibi Room was not to be missed.

What great recommendations.

We sat down and I was presented with a two page menu of beer on tap.  The selection was overwhelming (and exciting!).  Knowing I was going to be sampling a few beers, I started by selecting the Phillips Brewing Wheatking Hefeweizen and Upright Brewing Engelberg Pilsner.  Both wonderful, it was a great start to a sampling session:

Me with my first two samples Continue reading

Bucket list meal at Vij’s

When the opportunity to visit Vancouver turned into an upcoming reality with the purchase of plane tickets, the first thought that crossed my mind: I have to have a meal at Vij’s. My love and I have a passion for seeking out and finding great food on our travels, and we knew Vancouver was going to be an exceptional food city. But a stop at Vij’s was tops for us. The “best of lists” for Vancouver and our love of Indian cuisine was only partially behind it. The main reason was the restauranteur himself, Vikram Vij. His inventiveness, commitment to local ingredients and to preparation techniques honed over time, and his personal dedication to this restaurant (he greets guests personally!) meant that we knew we would be in for a special evening.

The experience begins in line waiting for the doors to open at 5:30. There are no reservations, all guests are equal, much like you were visiting him at his home. Drinks and snacks are offered while you wait for the restaurant to open. Can you tell we’re a little excited?

Us waiting for the doors to open

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Street food, Vancouver style

Great food, enjoyed outdoors, is one of life’s true pleasures.  Since the weather on our Vancouver trip more than cooperated, we got to try a number of different food trucks that inhabit the downtown area.  First up on my list was a stop at Japadog only a few hours after we landed.  Probably the most widely famous of Vancouver’s street food, this place smells great from a block away:

Japadog cart on Burrard

There’s a long list of hotdogs from which to choose, all having some form of Japanese twist on the traditional tube steak.  It’s a difficult decision, especially if you think you’re only going to be able to squeeze one of these in on a trip.  I settled on the Kurobuta Terimayo dog that is an amazing all-pork dog dressed with Teriyaki sauce, Japanese mayo and seaweed.  The verdict: unusual and delicious:

Japadog

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