Cemeteries in Paris

About five years ago, on a quiet Sunday morning in Uppsala, Sweden, I walked through a park-like cemetery and from a distance watched an older woman tend to the grave of her recently deceased husband. It is one of those moments that’s burned into my memory for being both terribly sad and incredibly beautiful. That morning, and through a few other visits to European cemeteries over the years, I have come to learn that some of the most beautiful parks in many foreign cities are in fact their graveyards.

While in Paris back in March, I made a two trips to cemeteries within the city. The first was a morning visit to the Montparnasse Cemetery in the same neighbourhood as my hotel.

Montparnasse Cemetery

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Returning to the 14th

March 13, 2017 – Paris

This is the first time my wife and I have returned somewhere in our travels together. Ok, that’s not entirely true, but ruling out Philadelphia and Pittsburgh for football game trips, it’s true. Not only did we return to Paris, but we consciously returned to Montparnasse, the 14th arrondissement.

There is a very comforting feeling returning here. Our first visit in 2009 was a great one, and we loved the slightly out of the way, definitely not overly touristy, authentic Montparnasse. Returning here eight years later, not much has changed. Such is the way with great neighbourhoods. Boulangerie, fromagerie, wine merchants, restaurants, gorgeous parks – all still here. And all as lovely as eight years ago.

Luxembourg Gardens

Being back here in Paris, not even twenty four hours after arriving, I’m comforted. I don’t feel a rush to get out to see the sights – we did all of that the last time here. This visit, I’m envisioning a much slower pace. Lingering in cafes, strolling streets and parks just for exploration. Simple stuff really.

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There’s something about France

As my wife and I were traveling back from Paris yesterday, while waiting for our connecting flight in Toronto, we spoke about how good it was to be back in Canada. For as much as I love to travel, I have always relished the feeling when my feet are planted back on Canadian soil. That being said, if there’s one place that could entice me to pack up and move, it would be France.

Two weeks ago after landing in Paris, even through the fog of jet lag, I knew instantly we were going to be in for a great trip. We spent about half of the trip in and around Paris based out of the 14th arrondissement where we had stayed back in 2009. The other half, we stayed in Lyon, a first for us. For the Paris part of the trip, we defiantly ignored the locations we visited on our first trip there – no Louvre, no Arc de Triomphe, and no Eiffel Tower except one distant view when we were exploring the Père Lachaise cemetery off in the distant 20th arrondissement. Instead, we lingered over drinks taking advantage of the spring warmth on outdoor patios, ate at cozy neighbourhood restaurants, and explored some quieter areas of the city.

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Lest we forget

I have been fortunate over the years through my travels to experience a number of poignant moments that have been burned deep in my memory.  Some are by chance, some are by design.  In that latter category, on a trip to France a little more than four years ago, my love and I made a trip to Normandy to visit Juno Beach, the interpretive centre commemorating the Canadian forces that landed on the beach on June 6, 1944, and to visit the Bény-sur-Mer Canadian War Cemetery in Reviers.  The grey of the morning with the wind and rain in our faces as we stood on the beach set a tone for our time in Normandy.  For me, the most emotional experience I have ever had while traveling happened a few hours later.  The clouds had given way to a beautiful late summer afternoon as we arrived at the cemetery.  With nary a breeze, the only sounds were the hushed exchanges of the handful of visitors and the singing of birds in the trees.  The sight of more than two thousand grave markers laid out across the immaculately manicured lawn was overwhelming.  I was filled with sadness and pride, awe and thankfulness.  I felt somehow more Canadian in this foreign land in that moment, more humble, more aware.  Then there was the first of an uncountable number of grave markers with the names and birth dates of mere teenagers who made the greatest of sacrifices.  With tears in my eyes, I walked away from my love not wanting her to see me cry.   She took this picture which hangs on a wall of our house, capturing the essence of the visit and the impact on both of us.  Lest we forget.

Bény-sur-Mer Canadian War Cemetery