A return to Milan

When my wife and I headed to Italy last fall, it was a very much needed trip. Lots had happened in our lives over the previous year (really, two years, but who’s counting?) and the idea of leaving the continent and spending a couple of weeks wandering around Milan, Turin, the Barolo area and Lake Como sounded like the slice of heaven we both needed. To make it a touch more special, we sprung for the really fancy seats on our flight to Milan and starting crushing Champagne as soon as we could.

First class flight experience on the way to Milan
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Birds in train stations

Maybe it is because I’m heading to a Hawksley Workman concert tonight and that his song “Birds in Train Stations” became a soundtrack for my wife and me during our recent visit to Italy. It seems a reasonable way to title this quick reflection of a trip that had us spending a bit of time navigating Italy’s notoriously not on schedule trains as we crossed from Milan to Turin to Asti and eventually on to small towns on the east coast of Lake Como. I mean, if you’ve ever traveled in Italy, take a listen to this song and grin at this line:

“birds in train stations
hear the same announcements everyday
except the ones in italy because there’s always some delay
and they move at a different pace”

Pretty much spot-on. At the end of the day, a national day-long train strike and a host of other trains that had a loose association with any concept of time became laughter and opportunity inducing more than anything (Strike? Let’s spend an unexpected night in Bellano!). Italy might be the only place on earth that can attempt to simultaneously frustrate you, then ask for forgiveness with offers of 5pm spritzes, plates of heavenly agnolotti in broth, stunning natural beauty, and impossibly amazing coffee in the most unlikely of places.

The two weeks were perfect. I cried at the beauty of a ballet at La Scala. My wife and I drank Barolo and Barbaresco that completely changed my view of what those wines can be. I lounged hours away looking out over the snow-capped Alps from the absurdly-sized deck of our Turin apartment. We wandered. We ate (oh my god, we ate). We were gifted homemade limoncello from a favourite restaurant in Milan that we used to toast good-night to each day along the way. I drove a tiny Fiat 500 with the roof down along twisty mountain roads. And maybe the best part of the entire trip…. was just being in the moment and letting all of the beauty around me wash over me for two weeks.

Thanks Italy. You were pretty great. Even with your annoying trains.

Everything is better in Italy

October 8 – Two days in beautiful Milan start with an easy check-in to Hotel Berna close to the train station.  We drop our bags and head to Santa Maria della Grazie for a 15 minute appointment to view The Last Supper by da Vinci.   Spending time with the painting was moving – it’s fragile based on the technique used, and there was a door cut where Jesus’ feet were painted (I guess no one thought it would be such a big deal). Pictures are strictly forbidden so all we have is this picture of the outside of the beautiful church:

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Milan: Duomo in pictures

October 8-9 – Ask people what they think of when you say “Italy”, and Milan will be a fair bit down the list for most.  We booked these couple of days here on speculation since we were so close, had never been to Italy before, and I thought I would be getting to see either AC Milan or Inter Milan play at San Siro.  The soccer schedule didn’t work out for me, but the time we spent around the Duomo more than made up for missing out on soccer.  More on our two days in Milan in a later post – for now, here’s a photo blog of the beautiful Duomo in Milan.

The Duomo at around 9am, before the crowds:

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