San Juan’s fortifications

Early one morning of our stay, I headed out toward Castillo San Felipe del Morro for some fresh air and to see the fortification without the hordes of other tourists.  This fort was built in the late 1500s to guard San Juan Bay.  It was a perfect morning for exploring this area – not a cloud in the sky and the heat of the day ahead hadn’t yet arrived.  One of the first striking features is the lighthouse, a recent addition to the fort in the early 1900s

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Walking away from the fort, you next encounter the Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery.  This cemetery, dating back to the early 1860s is perched high above the Atlantic Ocean.  There are about a thousand graves located here:

Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery

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An unexpected craft beer bar

Among the things I look for when visiting any city is a craft beer bar.  When I pulled up Google for Old San Juan, I really wasn’t expecting to find much.  Puerto Rico is rum country and their national beer is a pretty standard Caribbean thirst quencher with little to distinguish it.  Imagine my surprise and delight to learn about La Taberna Lupulo, a craft beer bar located about three blocks from my hotel in Old San Juan.

On a lazy Saturday afternoon with the temperatures hitting about 35°C it was time for a pint or two.  Pulling up a stool at the bar, my first selection was a witbier – Lost Coast Great White from California.  Delicious and refreshing on such a hot day:

Lost Coast Great White witbier

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Streets of Old San Juan

Immediately on entering Old San Juan it feels like you’ve been transported somewhere else.   Many of your senses won’t tell you that you’re in the Caribbean or that you’re actually and (though I know it to be a fact)  almost unbelievably in the United States.  The narrow cobblestone streets and the colonial Spanish architecture of the seven square blocks in this area of San Juan is an oasis juxtaposed against the rest of a hectic, large city.

All of my senses were completely overwhelmed by the streetscapes in Old San Juan.  From the vibrantly coloured buildings to the changing hues of the cobblestones as they became wet during a morning thundershower, then dried in the afternoon sun.  There were palm trees, lazy stray cats and dogs and Latin rhythms coming from behind walls only inches off the sidewalks down narrow alleys.   Strangers huddled tightly together under awnings to stay dry during the frequent quick downpours.  The scents that wafted out of restaurants, full of garlic and onion,  hung in the humid, almost oppressive late June air.

This part of the city was achingly beautiful in a way I haven’t seen before in my travels. Here are a few snaps from the streets of Old San Juan that for me, capture at least the pure physical beauty of this historic area.

First impressions of Old San Juan

There is a patina to Old San Juan that is unmistakeable. I haven’t been anywhere that was reminiscent of the seven square blocks that was our home away from home. Some combination of the heat, the tropical rains that would appear for brief interludes and the age of this part of San Juan create a beauty that is very unique. The architecture, food and people left a mark on both of us and it was a perfect backdrop for a honeymoon.

Calle del Cristo

Over five days we took a visit to El Yunque rainforest, did a Puerto Rican cooking class overlooking the Atlantic Ocean (where I started a love affair with fried plantains), endlessly wandered cobblestone streets, ate great food lovingly prepared and had more than our share of mojitos. We also spent time sitting in the interior open-air courtyard of our hotel reading, listening to the rain, drinking Spanish wine and reminiscing.

It was a great first trip as a married couple. More pictures and stories to share in the coming weeks…