Reconnecting with Philadelphia

I am back from a six day mixed work/vacation trip to a city that has its tentacles pretty deep into me.  It’s no secret my love for Philadelphia.  Years of traveling down there for work have me and the city more than casually acquainted, though it was far from love at first sight.  Philadelphia and I are familiar, so to speak. The kind of familiar where we can finish each others’ sentences, but not so familiar that the spark of spontaneity is missing when we see each other.

This trip was a mix of some old favourites and great new experiences. Some of the old?  A cheesesteak at Jim’s (in my highly researched opinion, the best in Philly), a couple of pints at Tria and a Flyers game. The new?  The revelation that was a sandwich at Paesano’s while touring south Philly, a remarkable meal at Zahav, and experiencing part of an Eagles game sitting among fast friends at a neighbourhood bar.

Speaking of my beloved Eagles, a  highlight of this trip was a last day surprise.  At the conference I was attending, I got to meet and chat with Jason Avant, one of my favourite Eagles.  He was nice enough to sign a picture for me, chat about the game from the night before and even spend some time swapping stories about our respective experiences in Quebec City and Montreal.  Me being thrilled at this chance encounter is a massive understatement:

Me and Eagle Jason Avant

Philadelphia… we’ve know each other a while, but you keep managing to surprise me in the greatest ways.

Back to Philadelphia

Philadelphia is the place I’ve traveled to more than anywhere else aside from Toronto.  The combination of previously working for a company based just outside Philly, my irrational love of the Eagles and a strange confluence of conferences in Philadelphia has me traveling there again at the end of this month.  I never get tired of going back.  In fact, I love it so much, I’m adding the better part of two days onto the start of the work part of the trip for some vacation.

Philadelphia a truly great city.  It’s a bit blue collar.  It has an underdog complex.  It is as far from pretentious as a city could be.  It’s honest, a bit gritty and doesn’t take itself too seriously.  If Philadelphia was a person, it would be that neighbour who helps you build a deck, loans you a few bucks to get you out of trouble without asking any questions, and calls you on it when you’re being an idiot.  Anthony Bourdain might have best summed it up about Philly when he said that it’s a “city with a low tolerance for bulls**t and plenty of heart.”

What do I have planned for this trip?  A Flyers game, a foodie visit to South Philly, touring and photographing some public art, at least one cheesesteak (who’s kidding who – it’ll be more than that), a long overdue trip to the Philadelphia Museum of Art and/or the Mutter Museum, watching my Eagles in a sports bar (shame they’re playing on the road that week), a stop at my favourite Philly beer store to stock up on some Yuengling to bring home, and as much more fun as I can squeeze around the work parts of the visit.  I know that by the time I get home, I’ll have eaten well, enjoyed some great laughs and have debated the Eagles offensive approach with whoever ends up sitting on bar stools next to me over the six days.  Such is Philadelphia.  Simple.  Honest.  Fun.  And with an endearing chip on its shoulder.   No wonder I love the city so much.

Touring the Linc

October 22 – By tacking on an extra night to my Philadelphia trip, I got a chance to do a tour of Lincoln Financial Field, the home of my Philadelphia Eagles.  I’d been to two games here in the past, but never had the chance to see some of the behind the scenes things that the tour would provide.   Here’s what 90 minutes inside the Linc looked like:

First view of the field down one of the tunnels in the end-zone seats:

View from one of the standing room areas inside the stadium:

From the press box:

Here’s the view from the television broadcast booth:

Eagles locker room:

When they let us loose inside the locker room, there was a mad dash to Vick’s locker.  I was the one guy who headed to the far end to where the offensive line’s lockers are.  This is me at Canadian Danny Watkins’ locker:

Just before being kicked out of the locker room:

Getting to walk on the field through the tunnel as the visiting players would experience it (minus having batteries, beer or snowballs thrown in my direction):

The Linc from field level:

Me at the 50:

I’m a fan of mascots, so here’s Swoop’s locker area with his ATV:

Although strictly forbidden during the tour, here’s my rebel side coming out.  When no one was looking, I made sure I could say I’ve stepped on the Eagles’ field:

Friday in Philly

October 21 – The last conference day, and I’m up at a reasonable hour as my body clock has finally adjusted from the previous weeks traveling in Europe.   Here’s the view from my hotel window of Philadelphia’s city hall and Liberty Place just as the sun is coming up:

The conference wraps up at mid day and my goal is to try cheesesteak #3 of the trip at Pat’s in South Philly.   The plan was to catch a cab, but with a 5,000 delegate conference spilling out of hotels, no cabbie wants a city fare so I start out walking south.  About 15 minutes later, out of the crush of hotels, I find a cab to take me the rest of the way.  Here’s Pat’s:

It’s an odd mix of tourists who don’t understand the gruff protocol of this place and locals looking to pick up a quick bite on their lunch hour.   I step up to the window, order my “wiz wit” and find a table:

It’s surprisingly good.  I’d read/heard about how Pat’s, although the home of the original cheesesteak, just didn’t make good ones – but this is pretty tasty and well put together.  I think I still prefer Jim’s, but I’m glad that I’m now basing that opinion on some scientific experimentation.

Walking around to the other side of Pat’s, here’s their competition – Geno’s (I wanted to try cheesesteak #4 there at lunch too, but a voice in my head, likely tied to the health of my heart, advised against it):

Hopped in a cab that magically appeared, and I get back to Center City to explore in the afternoon.  

View north along Broad Street toward City Hall:

City Hall and One Liberty Place:

Love Park with the Museum of Art in the distance at the end of the Benjamin Franklin Parkway.  On a previous trip to Philly,  Jodi and I did a city tour and the guide, clearly infatuated with anything/everything French, kept referring to the Ben Franklin Parkway as Philly’s “Champs Elysees” – No knock against the BFP, but he’d clearly never been to Paris:

Liberty Bell:

The plan for my last evening in Philly (on a recommendation from a conference delegate and the fact that I’m currently infatuated with Spanish food and wine) was tapas at Amada, Jose Garces’ restaurant in the Old City neighbourhood:

The restaurant itself is beautiful inside and I’m lucky to have an attentive and knowledgeable server for the evening.   As my first glass of wine hits the table, so too does a small serving of flat bread with a dip made from balsamic, tuna and a cream and cheese mixture that I’ve forgotten (on the left of the photo below).  Sounds odd, but it was really lovely.   Shortly after that arrives, my first dish of aged manchego with truffled lavender honey and green apple (on the right of the photo) enters the scene.   It’s spectacular (great blend of creme, sweet, tart and herbal) and a great start to the evening.

Next up is my favourite dish from the evening – grilled Spanish octopus in olive oil, paprika and garlic, served with small slices of potatoes:

This next course was really interesting – fried peppers with Maldon Sea salt.  A perfect mix of spice and salt cooled down by the foam made from La Peral (a blue cheese from the north of Spain) on the bottom of the dish:

Last up was some Chorizo Pamplona with cornichons, caper berries and mustard.  All of the elements of the dish worked so well together.  The chorizo was divine:

This was my one splurge meal in Philadelphia and I enjoyed it thoroughly.   After a short walk back to the subway, I’m whisked back to the hotel.   I’ve got a big day tomorrow before my later evening flight home…

Broad Street Bullies

October 20 – I’m excited to get to the Flyers-Capitals game tonight.   This is a great bit of scheduling karma as business has me in town at the same time as an early season game between rivals.   I snag a pretty good seat (chosen so I’d be at the end of the ice Ovechkin shoots toward twice… never been accused of not being a detailed trip planner).  The game is fast paced and competitive for about 45 minutes until Washington scores three quick goals in the 3rd to pull ahead for a 5-2 win.   I enjoyed myself immensely.  Here are some pics from the evening.

Second cheesesteak of the trip (this one from Campos at the rink, it was ok, but doesn’t really compare to the one from Jim’s Steaks two days earlier):

Flyers take the ice before the game:

Here’s a link to a video of the singing of the Star Spangled Banner by Lauren Hart, one of the better anthem singers in the NHL.  I’m a bit of a connoisseur of anthem singers – her God Bless America in the playoffs is outstanding, so hearing her sing was a treat. 

Opening faceoff:

Capitals working on the power play with Ovechkin setting the screen in the slot:

Flyers score to go up 1-0.  Fans celebrating the goal:

Shot from the point with the Capitals goalie trying to look around the screen in front:

Shot of the crowd in the 3rd before the Caps score three quick goals sending most of the fans to the exits early:

Final score 5-2 Caps.  Last pic before the orange line subway ride back to the hotel:

Philadelphia – the first two days

A year into my new role at the Medical School at Dalhousie, and my business related travels have involved trips to Toronto and Philadelphia, the two places I’ve spent the most time in from my previous career.   I was off to Philadelphia to attend the Educause conference on information technology in higher education.  It was an incredible experience professionally, and it allowed me to reacquaint myself with my one of my favourite American cities.

October 18 – I take an earlier morning flight which lets me squeeze in a cheesesteak for lunch at Jim’s Steaks on South and 4th in Center City before the conference gets underway.   It’s a mess to eat and I don’t want to know what it does for my heart, but I walked about 45 minutes round-trip from my hotel for this to at least make my conscience feel better about my dietary choice:

After a great happy hour with project/portfolio managers in higher education from around the world, I was planning on having dinner at an old favourite place near Rittenhouse Square.  It was jammed, but I stumbled on a really interesting place called Ladder 15 (on Sansom St).  It’s a gastro pub in a converted firehouse.  The food was really good.  I had two Korean tacos (one with shortribs, one with pork belly) – spectacular fresh flavours that went well with a Victory Prima Pilsner from Downingtown, PA.   The guy sitting beside me was a huge Eagles fan so we lamented the season together.  When I told him I was from Nova Scotia he asked “…. that’s close to Greenland, right?”  Um, no.

October 19 – Conference days can feel very long.  A multitude of sessions and lots of discussions with colleagues is both exhilarating and draining.   I take my evening respite at Tria, really, one of my all-time favourite places anywhere I’ve traveled.   I grab a seat at the bar and try to make up my mind – they’ve got an outstanding selection of wines by the glass and beers from around the world.  The food menu is small focusing on cheese tastings, higher end sandwiches, salads and appetizers.  I end up selecting a beer (Allagash White from Maine) to drink and a sandwich with crispy prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, roasted tomatoes, arugula, roasted tomatoes and garlic oil:

On the way back to the hotel, I get caught in a torrential downpour (one which hits Halifax the next day), but it does little to dampen my spirits after a great conference day and wonderful supper.