Gluten free eating in Prague

Goulash.  Dumplings.  Beer (oh, the beer!).  Rich sauces thickened with bread.   I loved my first experiences with Czech cuisine.  But it’s not the most approachable for visitors with a limited grasp of the Czech language who suffer from Celiac disease.

As I planned this trip with my wife who needs to eat a strict gluten free diet, we honed in on a couple of places to ensure she got a taste of authentic Czech food rather than spending two weeks watching me chow down in restaurants while she ate a salad.  In the heart of Prague, we ate at two great places with dedicated gluten-free menus

Švejk Restaurant U Karla

Not to be confused with other Švejk restaurants around Prague, this one at Křemencova 7 has a separate gluten free menu.  In fact, when you order from that menu, your food arrives at the table with little gluten free flags.  This is a great place with a pub feel and we enjoyed the food the two times we visited.

One of the truly great dishes: beer cheese, wrapped in bacon served with a braided bun (similar to a pretzel).  This was amazing gluten free pub food.  I’ve sampled a lot of gluten free bread products and very, very few I’d order unless I needed to.  This one was mind blowing!  I would have had no idea it was gluten free:

Gluten free beer cheese and pretzel

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My first European soccer (err, football) match

I can’t even begin to explain how excited I was to get to see my first European football match in Prague.  Bad scheduling luck on past trips kept me from seeing PSG in Paris or Inter or AC Milan in Italy.  I’ve also had a whole host of missed opportunities in Sweden, Denmark, Switzerland, Belgium and the Netherlands.  This trip finally delivered.  My first match was AC Sparta Praha playing FC Baník Ostrava.

Best. Cultural. Experience. Ever!  Can you tell how excited I am from the picture below?

AC Sparta Praha match

I’ve been to my share of sporting events and each and every one holds a special place in my heart.  The only Nordiques game I got to with my Dad, my first Monday Night Football game, sitting in the upper deck for a San Francisco Giants game watching boats out in the bay, a Canada-USA world championship hockey game – all awesome!   And all surpassed by this soccer game in Prague.  Why?

Heavily armed riot police in the subway station and on the walk to the stadium?  Oh yes!  I didn’t get photos of it, but a supporters website sure did.  And people think it’s rough going to a Philadelphia Eagles game…

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This year’s big trip

I’ve been fortunate over the past few years to visit a number of interesting places. Many of those have been short stay, primarily work-related trips.  But by tacking on a day or two of vacation I’ve been able to see some interesting things and have some wonderful experiences that I cherish.  With that said, there’s nothing that compares to a “big trip”.  For us, that’s usually a once a year thing when our work and vacation schedules can be aligned for a two week escape.  Last year it was a four country tour of Scandinavia, the year before had us wandering around Switzerland and down to Milan.  This year our big trip is a two week jaunt to the Czech Republic with an ambitious 40 hour side trip to Vienna thrown in because we’ll be “in the neighbourhood”.

The Czech Republic has been high on our must visit list for a while.  We’ve rented an apartment in Prague for two weeks and will be exploring the city at a leisurely pace.  What’s on our itinerary?  A couple of day trips –  one to Terezín to learn about its horrific history during WWII, another one (perhaps more of a pilgrimage for me) to Plzeň, the birthplace of pilsner beer.  An AC Sparta Praha soccer match gets us to our first game after all our previous trips failed to align with European soccer schedules.  There’s a night at the opera, some castles, a few museums, and a lot of leisurely exploring, hanging out in parks and cafes, and drinking in what will be spectacularly beautiful surroundings.

Our last couple of big trips were less about food and drink than normal.  This one will be very different.  I’m excited to try some traditional Czech cuisine – in particular, pork knee, roast goose, goulash, dumplings and the pungent domestic cheese, Olomoucké tvarůžky.    As a beer lover, my travel map is littered with pins for hopeful visits to many tankovna pubs so I can sample the finest Czech beer at its unpasteurized and unfiltered best.  In Vienna I hope to try some of the world’s best coffee, have a piece (or 3) of sachertorte, and spend an evening at a heuriger on the outskirts of the city sampling the young, fresh white wines produced on the hills of the Danube.

Here’s to this year’s big trip which can’t get here fast enough!