Seattle two ways

They were simpler times in so many ways. Crossing the border into the USA wasn’t something that made my stomach churn like it did for a trip I just took to Washington. And while I’m debating with myself how frequently I’ll be back down to the USA for pleasure over the next little while, there was no such hesitation on my last two visits to Seattle. Seattle feels a lot like Vancouver and I’ve been there enough that I have a good sense of the city and a few favourite haunts by now.

The first trip, my wife made the journey there with me while I was attending a conference, and it was fun to both see the city through her eyes and to also experience some new things with her. A tradition we have on all of our trips is some form of Yahtzee championship. We spent a couple of hours at TeKu Tavern + Cafe and while I enjoyed a couple of delicious pints of Washington state beer, I demolished my wife in our Yahtzee matches. She was terribly disappointed at how the games went.

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Six days of Seattle sampling

Anytime I got out of Saskatoon in 2016, mission one was partaking in some craft beer sampling. My desire to try a new beer every time I crack one open had run into a small (but thankfully growing and delicious) craft beer scene in Saskatchewan. In Seattle I had the opposite problem – so many beers, and so little time – so I got started right away on my first afternoon. With a reservation just around the corner at a great Mexican restaurant, I stopped in at Optimism Brewing for a quick four sample tasting. Most memorable was the Afraid of the Dark lager, but the prize for best named went to “Don’t Boo, Vote” – particularly sad as I was sipping it just two days after the election.

Optimism Brewing Company

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Touring Safeco Field

Trips to American cities for me recently have come up roses for getting to see baseball games. Twins games in Minneapolis, an Astros game in Houston, a Cubs game and a White Sox game in Chicago, a long dream fulfilled to see a game at Fenway in Boston… but this trip to Seattle came a couple of weeks after the end of the thrilling 2016 season. Luckily for me, Safeco Field, home of the Mariners, offers year-round tours. It’s not quite the same as getting to spend a few hours with a beer in your hand watching a game, but the tour offered by the Mariners let me see their ballpark in much more depth.

And what a beautiful park it is. Even in late November, our tour was treated to a spectacular day to wander around the stadium. First stop after some introductory history of the team and its old stadium was the upper level seats behind home plate. From here, you get an outstanding overall perspective. It also would be a great place to watch a game if you wanted to save a few bucks on tickets.

Safeco Field tour

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Chance encounters with art

Wandering through the streets of downtown Seattle back in November, I came across a number of interesting pieces of public art. On a previous trip to Seattle, I ventured out to the Olympic Sculpture Park to take in an amazing collection of public art situated right on the water just north of downtown. This trip was much different. My public art exploring ended up being mostly accidental encounters on my way to or from something else. These small, pleasant interruptions on my journeys, added colour and context to this lovely Pacific coast city.

As I was heading to a tour of Safeco Field, the baseball stadium of the Seattle Mariners, and on my way for a coffee in Pioneer Square, I came across the Fallen Firefighters Memorial by Hai Wing Yu which pays tribute to four firefighters who lost their life fighting a blaze in this neighbourhood.

Fallen Firefighters Memorial in Seattle

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A hankering for seafood

Living in a landlocked city, I have been missing the previously under appreciated access I had to wonderful seafood back in Halifax. On my first grocery shopping trip in Saskatoon back in April, I looked at a frozen Atlantic lobster tail for sale and just shook my head in disbelief. Now, when I’m traveling to a coastal area, my food radar tunes into the seafood selections so I can make up for lost time. My trip to Seattle in November was all about the seafood.

After I dropped my bags at the hotel on arrival, I immediately walked to the Pike Place Market and to the counter of the Market Grill. I was on a mission… it was lunch time, and I had a hankering for their specialty – the grilled salmon sandwich. I closed my eyes for the first bite so I could savour the long overdue taste of the sea. Delicious!

Salmon sandwich at Market Grill

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The greatest setting in college football

It’s hard as a Canadian to wrap my head around American college football. Earlier this fall I went to a university football game in Saskatoon. It was charming – beautiful September night, about 7,000 fans, a down-home atmosphere in the pre-game festivities and an exciting game to boot. It was a quaint, perfectly lovely thing to attend, even if the hometown University of Saskatchewan Huskies couldn’t pull off the victory. Fast forward a few months, and with a stroke of scheduling luck, the University of Washington Huskies played the USC Trojans while I was in Seattle attending a conference in November. Walking into the stadium, it was clear this was nothing like the game I saw back in Saskatoon. All this experience would share with that September night is the name of the two home teams.

Husky Stadium

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Back from Seattle

I was not ready for post-election America.

Arriving in the USA two days after the recent election, I had no idea what to expect. What I found was a blue state in mourning. The wounds were fresh. People were hurt. Deeply hurt. I was in Seattle for a medical education conference and every keynote speech had been torn up and rewritten in the aftermath of November 8. Every workshop and panel discussion had a tie to the election. At every table I sat, I was asked what Canada thought of what had just happened. In my head, I had a chuckle at the irony of an element of the Canadian psyche in seeking validation from Americans now emerging from my colleagues to the south.

This was a predominantly work-related trip, but even my limited social and tourist activities around the edges kept bumping into post-election America – demonstrations in downtown Seattle, overheard conversations and newspapers filled with election coverage. Even with all of that as a backdrop, I’ve taken away some great memories unrelated to politics. I ate close to my weight in seafood (oh, how I miss fresh seafood in Saskatoon), did a tour of Seattle’s baseball stadium, sampled a good number of Pacific Northwest craft beers, and had a memorable night at a big college football game. I’ve got a backlog of writing to do, but will write more about my Seattle experiences in the coming weeks and months.

Last Day in Seattle

December 3 – Given Seattle’s reputation for coffee, I scouted out Caffe Umbria with a location close to my hotel for a morning cappuccino and croissant.  Easily the best coffee I had in Seattle.  This is a delicious way to start a day:

I grabbed a bag of coffee beans to bring back to Halifax with me and started to make my way to the Experience Music Project (EMP) museum.  For about the next half hour, I feel like I descended into a series of Simpsons episodes.  First, to get to EMP I need to take a ride on a monorail (and as it banks into the final turn heading past the museum, I can almost hear Lyle Lanley himself running off with bags of money after skimping on safety standards):

Then I lay eyes on the EMP and its Frank Gehry design harkens me back to his design of Springfield’s concert hall / Montgomery Burns state prison:

Simpsons references aside, this part of Seattle feels like time passed it by a bit.  Seattle Center and the Space Needle came into being for the 1962 World’s Fair.  Maybe it’s the chilly, grey morning I’m here, but it feels like it has seen better days.   That being said, the Space Needle itself is a pretty impressive architectural landmark:

Here, the Space Needle and its reflection in the side of the EMP:

The EMP is one of the most interesting museums I’ve been to in my travels.  There’s a bunch of displays on music history, especially focused on key artists of the Pacific Northwest (Jimi Hendrix, Nirvana and the other “grunge” acts of the 90s).   One of the things I really enjoyed was a display of electric guitars through the ages, including this 1952 Gibson Les Paul:

As a bit of a collector of concert set lists, I liked this one – the set list from the last Nirvana show ever (in Germany):

One of the best features of this museum were the interactive rooms where you could play instruments.  Here’s a picture of one of the “pods” of instruments – guitar, bass and drums.  After some interactive instruction on how to play the instrument, you could team up with others in the pod to play parts of a song.  For the pod I tried, I got to play rhythm guitar for Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit” in concert with a bass player and a drummer who had just “learned” their instruments:

This impressive sculpture (“If VI was IX: Roots and Branches”) in the main hallway of the music-related displays let’s you hear the permutations of the sounds it can produce:

There were also great exhibits on the making of the movie “Avatar” and an installation on horror movies (with displays featuring costumes and props from the classics).  The best part of the horror movie installation was that you could orchestrate the music and sounds in the room (I enjoyed a few minutes of adding screams and chainsaws to an orchestral piece which had a few folks looking at the displays wondering what was going on) Overall, it was a wonderful interactive museum and a great place to spend a few hours on a chilly overcast day.

The rest of my last vacation day in Seattle was about trying some drink and food.  Making my may back to downtown Seattle, I stopped at Elysian Fields for lunch and tried their famously-entitled “Men’s Room Red” ale.  Delicious:

On my way to supper, I make a quick stop in for happy hour at 106 Pine, a wine shop and tasting bar featuring a solid selection of Washington state wines.  Here’s a Merlot that took some of the chill out of the evening:

From there, it was on to Andaluca for a Spanish-inspired small plates meal.   First course: Broken Egg Papas Frites with chorizo and roasted mushrooms (and really, I could have just ordered this two more times and gone back to the hotel extremely happy):

Second course (complete with a warning that eating raw seafood may be a health hazard): Spicy Calamari bruschetta with saffron aioli – exceptionally fresh and very spicy/hot:

A very interesting Washington state Pinot Noir with strong hints of licorice.  Unusual and interesting and quite nice for a cold night:

Last course: Paella with chicken, chorizo, grilled prawn, harissa butter and saffron:

Fully warmed up from the inside, I took in some of the Christmas lights in the shopping district of Seattle before heading back to the hotel.  Among the pictures, the first and last ones below are of the Macy’s star and Christmas tree at Westlake Center:

Unfortunately, that marked the end of the vacation part of the trip.  I did come away with some perspectives on Seattle in the course of just under 3 days:

1. Seattle is a very friendly city.  People smile, engage in conversation and really seem to be down to earth folk.  The west coast lifestyle is something I’m finding resonates with me.

2. The food culture in Seattle is something I could really get used to:  Fresh seafood and variety like I haven’t seen in other coastal places including here in Halifax; Great local red wines; Enormous selection of microbrews across the spectrum of styles; A deep appreciation and care for the quality of food;  It would be great to shop, cook and eat here.

3. In some respects, Seattle is like many other larger cities.  But on its doorstep is immense natural beauty – lakes and rivers, mountains and pine trees.   If/when I get back to this area, I’ll spend more time exploring what’s around this area.  I could easily imagine this being a great place to live for a few years.

Do I dare call this Sleepless in Seattle?

December 2 – When my head hit the pillow the previous night after a day of traveling across the continent followed by a football game, it was for a much needed sleep.  Unfortunately, staying in a hotel with so many Eagles fans meant a bit of noise as everyone returned to the hotel after spending some time at the bars around the hotel – it was less than a perfect night of rest.

A bit bleary eyed, I made my way to Zeitgeist Coffee for a jolt.  A delicious corn and blueberry muffin and a good cup of coffee got the day off on the right foot:

I didn’t realize how hilly downtown Seattle was.  On my map, from the coffee shop to the Columbia Tower office building (where I was going to take in views of Seattle from their 70th floor observation deck) looked to be about a 10 minute walk.  Most of those 10 minutes were what seemed to be straight up the side of a mountain.  After a good and unexpected workout, I end up there to take in the sights.  I had the place mostly to myself.  Partway through my time in the observation deck, I had a nice chat with the only other person to visit – Kim from Korea.  He seemed to think I came from father away, but I think he had me by about 2,000km.  Needless to say, neither of us was close to home.  Here are some pictures of the views.

Downtown Seattle (Space Needle in the middle of the frame with Puget Sound to the left):

Closer view of the Space Needle (the red and blue blobs beside it are the Frank Gehry designed Experience Music Project and Science Fiction Museum):

The two Seattle stadiums (Safeco field, home of the Mariners in the background; CenturyLink Field, home of the Seahawks and site of the Eagles massacre from the night before in the foreground):

View eastward past Mercer Island (on a clearer day, Mt Rainier would be visible)

I had yet to discover the free buses that run throughout downtown Seattle, so I made my way by foot to the Olympic Sculpture Park.  This waterfront park features a number of large-format pieces of public art and was a great place to wander around for an hour or so.

Bunyon’s Chess (1965) by Mark di Suvero:

The Eagle (1971) by Alexander Calder

Probably my favourite piece in the park, Typewrite Eraser, Scale X (1999) by Claes Oldenburg:

Love and Loss (2005-2006) by Roy McMakin

Schubert Sonata (1992) by Mark di Suvero

In the park, they had these neat eyeball seats (you can sit behind the eye ball) – loved the whimsy of these:

The views out on Puget Sound were really nice even on this grey day.  Here I am before making my way back toward downtown:

I was told that if you have one day in Seattle, you have to see the Pike Place Market.  And if you have two days, you should go twice.   I’m a huge fan of markets, so this was great advice.  Here are a few pics from a slow stroll through the market in the afternoon:

Here’s the Pike Place Fish Market (made very famous on various Food Network shows by their flying fish routine):

The selection of fresh seafood was incredible:

The drawing attention at this fish stand is the throwing and catching of whole fish.  I was lucky enough to be standing around when the fish starting flying.  Here’s a video of a true Seattle experience.

Just across the street from the market is one of two things depending on your viewpoint: (1) the origin of coffee culture in North America or (2) the thing that started the decline of coffee culture in the rest of the world.  Perhaps it can be both.  Here it is, the very first Starbucks: