A gateway to Belgian beer

While I liberally sampled many beers to kick off my European trip last year in Amsterdam, it was in Antwerp that the real beer tastings started. As a beer nerd, I had long wanted to do a deep dive sort of trip in Belgium to learn about and appreciate one of the best and richest beer culture countries. Antwerp was a literal and metaphorical gateway. Arriving there from Amsterdam on a Thursday afternoon there was only one thing on my mind… a visit to maybe the most unique beer bar I have experienced…. and visiting it wasn’t a guarantee.

Kulminator in the centre of Antwerp is a quirky place. I was met at an obscure door that doesn’t reveal what is inside by an older gentleman who asks what your purpose is. If he doesn’t like the look of you or you answer incorrectly, he’ll simply shut the door in your face. I arrived, and in my best French said I was from Canada and I wanted to (and this is *very* important) “taste” some exceptional beer. In this bar, you don’t drink beer, you “taste” it. The gentleman nodded and motioned for me to come inside and that started a beautiful, sensual beer tasting experience. I looked over a large binder of all of their cellared beers and made my selection. The gentleman’s wife poured me a gorgeous Rocherfort 8 from 2014. It tasted of chocolate, candied fruit, spice and everything nice. I was in heaven.

Continue reading

The tradition continues, kind of…

One of my favourite travel traditions is taking an annual self-indulgent, solo trip to satisfy my inner baseball nerd. Over the years, that now has me sitting at visiting 16 of the 30 major league ballparks with my brain constantly working on the logistics to tick off the final 14. The pandemic years put a halt to my progress that I’m glad is changing this year as I have plans to visit Detroit and Cleveland later this summer.

Last summer, looking to scratch the itch of live baseball, I decided to take the relatively short trip to Vancouver for a few nights of minor league baseball. The Vancouver Canadians, an affiliate of the Toronto Blue Jays, play out of the cozy and idyllic Nat Bailey Stadium. For the low cost of $25 you can have the best seat in the house behind home plate. A beautiful Vancouver summer evening, cold local craft beers and the crack of the bat….. couldn’t be better!

Vancouver Canadians game
Continue reading

Bad timing, that’s all

I really could not have had worse luck with the soccer schedules on my trip to Portugal in October. Whether it was Europa League, Champions League or the Portuguese domestic league, the home teams of Lisbon and Porto were playing when I was in those respective cities, but in away matches each and every game. While I’ve had some really fun times at matches in Prague, Rome and Seville that will have to hold me over until my next European adventure. So, to make the best of some bad timing and with my wife sleeping in one morning in Lisbon, I took the opportunity to do a tour of Benfica’s stadium on the outskirts of the city.

Estadio da Luz, you are definitely a beauty.

Estádio da Luz

Continue reading

Late night soccer in Seville

When you think of Spain it doesn’t take too long going down the list of cultural touchstones until you reach the beautiful game.. fútbol.  So while I would want to go to a match simply for the pure enjoyment of watching the sport, I also wanted to experience this important Spanish slice of life while I was in Seville.

The city has two teams – FC Sevilla, the more accomplished and decorated side, and Real Betis, the city’s “second” team that has struggled throughout its history.  Real Betis is known to have some of the most loyal supporters in Spain, even drawing huge crowds when they bounce down to the country’s second division, a place they were as recently as the previous season.  But this year, they ascended back into La Liga, and on a Saturday night in October, were taking on RCD Espanyol.  With a little help from our Airbnb host back in Madrid, we obtained tickets for the match, and were among the first people through the gates when they opened at the Estadio Benito Villamarín.

Inside Estadio Benito Villamarín in Seville

Continue reading

A Champions League rout in Madrid

Before leaving for our trip to Spain, I was poking around looking at club football schedules to see if I could wrap a second match into our two weeks with a day trip outside of Madrid or Seville.  Being the soccer fan neophyte that I am, it was only a couple weeks before our trip that I realized I should check the Champions League schedule as Madrid’s two teams and Sevilla FC were all in the competition.   To my astonishment and excitement, on the second last night of our trip, Atletico Madrid was playing a Champions League match at home.  Splurging for great seats, I tucked two tickets into our luggage for the trip across the pond.

To say I was excited heading to the match would be an understatement.  We took the metro to the south west edge of the city and walked to the Estadio Vincente Calderón.  The streets fanning out from the stadium were already filling with fans more than an hour before kickoff and every twenty feet or so there was a table selling merchandise in the red, white and pale blue of Atletico.

After entering the stadium, we started to make our way toward our seats. Coming out of the concourse on the second level, we emerged to the sight of the pitch in the late evening light.  Beautiful.

Entering Estadio Vicente Calderón

Continue reading

The Bernabéu

I’ve been to Yankee Stadium and Fenway Park.  To Soldier Field.  To the Air Canada Centre in Toronto – the homes of some of the most storied North American sports teams.   Although the league schedule for Spain’s top soccer league didn’t line up for me getting to see Real Madrid play, I did make sure to visit their historic ground, the Estadio Santiago Bernabéu.

Real Madrid offers a truly remarkable tour of their stadium.  You buy a ticket, walk inside, then get to guide yourself through the tour with no one shuffling you along quicker than you want.   Stop one on the tour is way up in the cheap seats for a panoramic view, or as I would call it, the view that my limited funds would likely procure if I bought a ticket.  Wow.

View of Santiago Bernabéu

Continue reading

Soccer night in Vancouver

I was thrilled when the MLS schedule was released to see there was a Whitecaps FC match in Vancouver while I was visiting.  After a long string of trips where I just missed out on soccer matches, this made it three in a row of visiting soccer cities and getting to see a match (Prague for a Sparta match and Rome for a Lazio match).  On a picture perfect Vancouver evening, I made my way to BC Place.  People were out early for the game and enjoying the sun just outside the stadium  The only letdown was a malfunction in the retractable roof that kept the evening’s game from being played under a clear sky.

Outside BC Place

I was there for the doors opening so I could wander around the stadium and grab supper while watching warmups.  BC Place is a beautiful place to watch a match:

Inside BC Place

Continue reading

Sunday in Rome means football

After a long day traveling and an overnight flight from Montreal to Rome, my body’s natural inclination was to get to the hotel and lay down for a nap.  But on this trip to Italy, there was one and only one chance to participate in the most Italian of traditions.  A tradition bordering on religion to many Italians was to take place at 3pm on this Sunday afternoon.

Calcio.  Football.  Soccer.   It was something I wasn’t going to miss.   After a remarkable cultural experience watching my first European soccer match last year in Prague, weary body and mind wouldn’t keep me away from joining 30,000 others for the afternoon’s Lazio-Sassuolo match.  From touchdown of our plane through train and subway to our hotel, then subway and tram to Stadio Olimpico, we made it just minutes before the match was to start.   The Lazio supporters and ultras had already taken up their traditional place in the Curva Nord and were warming up their voices as the players were introduced:

Stadio Olimpico in Rome for a Lazio match

Continue reading