Vancouver for the holidays

Almost eight months later, I have a vivid, yet simple memory. My wife and I were in the Calgary airport on Christmas night enroute to Vancouver for a short vacation. We were happy to be getting away to a favourite city for a few days and to be able to exchange our Saskatoon parkas for lighter rain jackets as we escaped from a prairie winter. My memory now of that night, through a prism of a pandemic that has grounded my traveling in 2020, is just of the simple, unadulterated happiness I get from traveling. As we sat waiting for our flight on to Vancouver, sharing a snack to tide us over before a very late night McDonalds run after we landed, I remember feeling at peace. And I wonder when I’ll be able to enjoy sitting in an airport again.

More than just sitting in an airport, I’m looking forward to eating and drinking in public establishments around the world again. On Boxing Day morning, as soon as it opened, I wandered into La Taqueria Pinche Taco Shop, one of a number of “must visit” places every time I’m in Vancouver.

La Taqueria Pinche Taco Shop

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New and old favourites

Vancouver has become a favourite city of mine, especially now that it is a relatively painless direct flight away. A number of trips there over the past few years created an interesting, and delicious dilemma for my most recent visit – do I retrace my past steps for favourite foods or do I explore some new restaurants and tastes in hopes of adding to my list of favourites? Of course, balance is everything, so in the spirit of “a little from column A and a little from column B” I did both.

There was no doubt that a visit to Vancouver would have to include some seafood, and in particular, sushi. There are a couple of reasonable sushi places in Saskatoon, but arriving at Sushi Itoga on Robson Street reminded me just how amazing truly great sushi can be. I placed my order at the counter, sat down at one of the long communal tables, and a few minutes later, this amazing spread was placed in front of me.

Sushi Itoga

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Southern food and beer

Southern hospitality is a real thing. When I was in Atlanta, you could feel it in a few distinct ways. First, I was consistently referred to as “hon” or “love” in a way that reminded me of Atlantic Canadian grandmothers. Secondly, everyone I talked to was genuinely interested in having a conversation, and when they learned I was visiting, they were generous with tips on how to best enjoy Atlanta. And lastly, and luckily for someone who is a food and beer lover, the hospitality came shining through every time I sat down for a meal or for a beverage.

My introduction to southern hospitality and food started shortly after arriving in Atlanta from Saskatoon. I was starving, and through a bit of good fortune, I found Max Lager’s, a great gastropub, around the corner from my hotel. My server’s recommendation of the fried chicken was a winner – set on top of mashed potatoes, drizzled with honey and served with some tangy greens, it was a great first taste of Atlanta and was enough food for two. Or one hungry travel-weary Canadian.

Fried chicken at Max Lager's

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Texas through tacos and barbecue

I have a confession to make.  Nearing the end of a week in Texas spent sampling some really good craft beer and eating almost solely at barbecue and taco joints, I thought about ordering a salad.   Luckily, I didn’t follow through on that crazy idea until I got back home.

On my first day in Houston, after taking in an exciting Astros game, a short walk got me to Jackson Street BBQ.  It was almost next door to the ballpark, and even if I tried to get lost, my nose would have been able to follow the smell of smoky meat right to their front door.  My first Texas barbecue experience was delicious as I tried the sampler plate with sausage, ribs and brisket, a side of beans, and an Oktoberfest ale from Saint Arnold Brewing:

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A week of tacos

I have written many times about my love of really good tacos, so it will come as no surprise that before leaving for San Diego I had a long list of taco places I wanted to visit.  In particular, I wanted to try what might be the official food of San Diego, the fish taco.  So, wasting no time, on our first night in the city my wife and I made our way to the downtown location of Puesto, a restaurant that consistently wins the “best fish taco” award in a couple of San Diego’s alternative weekly papers.

Another great thing about Puesto, and really all of the taco joints we would hit, is they offered great gluten free selections for my wife.  Unfortunately, no Baja fish tacos (they’re normally breaded and fried), but she didn’t mind as she enjoyed (and happily shared!) her plate of chicken verde, carnitas and vegetable tacos (picture on the left).   That drink in that picture was a mango margarita and hands down the best drink of the entire trip.   My fish tacos (picture on the right) were incredible.  The fish was perfectly fresh cod, battered using blood orange beer and topped with cabbage, chile cream, avocado and tomatillo roja.   One night in, and I would have agreed to live in San Diego just to keep eating these tacos.

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Crossing the border

First things first – dispel what you’ve likely heard about Tijuana.  It’s true that it is a city that saw a remarkable amount of horrific violence in its not too distant past.   It’s also true that it can be a clichéd day trip location to drink bad tequila, buy some trinkets and pose for pictures wearing a sombrero.  But there’s a lot more to Tijuana than the shadow of its history and what can be found in its overly touristy areas.

When I found out I’d be traveling to San Diego, I wanted to visit Tijuana as I find it hard to be so close to an international border and not pop over for a look.   I’m also intrigued by Mexican culture and food and couldn’t pass up the opportunity for even a brief taste, both literally and figuratively.  As I read more about Mexico’s fifth largest city the pull became too strong to resist.  I found an incredible local guide, Derrik, from Turista Libre, and my wife and I committed to a day trip as part of our week on the west coast.

We took a morning train south from San Diego, met our guide and walked across the border into Mexico.  No document checks, no wait… we just swung through a few turnstiles guarded by some folks with impressive looking guns strapped across their backs and presto, we were in Mexico.   Our day had a loose plan of a market visit, spending some time on a beach, a bit of touring the city and a meal of tacos.  Had I known how good those tacos were going to be, I might have considered just heading there straightaway.

Stop one was the Mercado Hidalgo, the largest market in Tijuana.  After a quick stop for a taste of traditional Mexican coffee simmering in a pot on the stove, we entered the market and were most enthused by the food vendors.  We walked past mounds of moles (my mind was spinning with what I could do with these):

Moles Tijuana market

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A world of food in Toronto

A trip to Toronto for me is always a chance to sample from a world’s worth of cuisines.  On this last visit, I managed to to squeeze in some pretty tasty Spanish, El Salvadorian, Mexican and Venezuelan meals.

Spanish: Patria

The food of Spain isn’t the only allure for me, it’s also the art of tapas that draws me in.  I always struggle picking something from a menu, so tapas works perfectly for me.  Patria, on King St. West, is a relatively new Toronto restaurant and was the place my sister picked for her birthday meal.  The food and wine were lovely, and we had a nice cross section of tapas.   Marcona almonds, chorizo, manchego, pan con tomate, roasted peppers, some interesting Spanish wines, and much more…. good times!

Tapas at Patria

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Best eats of 2013

My travels in 2013 gave me some very memorable eating memories.  Here are a few of the many great things I ate while away this year.

San Juan: Mofongo

Having now tried the national dish of Puerto Rico, I wonder where mofongo has been up to this point in my life.  This is a dish made with fried green plantains that are mashed with olive oil, garlic, some fried pig bits and then filled with meat.  While in San Juan I tried two versions.  The one on the left from Cafe Manolin, a 50’s style diner, was filling and delicious as I waited out a torrential downpour.  The one on the right from Restaurante Airenumo was a more upscale version and the best meal of the five days in Puerto Rico.

Vancouver: Vij’s

Vij’s was a bucket list restaurant for me.  For years and years, I’ve known I would eat here once I got to Vancouver.  This meal was perhaps the best overall meal from the year of travel.  Exceptional service and feeling like you were dining in someone’s home only made it that much better.  The food was sublime: flavourful, perfectly spiced, interesting and inventive.  Making this the perfect evening was getting a chance to say hi to Vikram Vij himself.

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The best Vancouver lunches

Food trucks, high end cuisine and great hole in the wall places to grab a bite to eat.  Vancouver had it all.  Although it took me until the last two days of our trip to get to the final two places on my “must eat” list, they were well worth the wait.

Meat & Bread – As my conference wrapped up on Friday at noon, only a small detour back to the apartment got me to Meat & Bread.  Each day they serve four different sandwiches, including a sandwich of the day.  I really didn’t ponder the menu because there was only one sandwich I came for – the porchetta.

I saw this place on Food Network a few weeks before the trip and there was no doubt about what I would order.  Here’s the porchetta being carved as I waited in line to order:

Meat and Bread

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Street food, Vancouver style

Great food, enjoyed outdoors, is one of life’s true pleasures.  Since the weather on our Vancouver trip more than cooperated, we got to try a number of different food trucks that inhabit the downtown area.  First up on my list was a stop at Japadog only a few hours after we landed.  Probably the most widely famous of Vancouver’s street food, this place smells great from a block away:

Japadog cart on Burrard

There’s a long list of hotdogs from which to choose, all having some form of Japanese twist on the traditional tube steak.  It’s a difficult decision, especially if you think you’re only going to be able to squeeze one of these in on a trip.  I settled on the Kurobuta Terimayo dog that is an amazing all-pork dog dressed with Teriyaki sauce, Japanese mayo and seaweed.  The verdict: unusual and delicious:

Japadog

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