Reconnecting with Philadelphia

I am back from a six day mixed work/vacation trip to a city that has its tentacles pretty deep into me.  It’s no secret my love for Philadelphia.  Years of traveling down there for work have me and the city more than casually acquainted, though it was far from love at first sight.  Philadelphia and I are familiar, so to speak. The kind of familiar where we can finish each others’ sentences, but not so familiar that the spark of spontaneity is missing when we see each other.

This trip was a mix of some old favourites and great new experiences. Some of the old?  A cheesesteak at Jim’s (in my highly researched opinion, the best in Philly), a couple of pints at Tria and a Flyers game. The new?  The revelation that was a sandwich at Paesano’s while touring south Philly, a remarkable meal at Zahav, and experiencing part of an Eagles game sitting among fast friends at a neighbourhood bar.

Speaking of my beloved Eagles, a  highlight of this trip was a last day surprise.  At the conference I was attending, I got to meet and chat with Jason Avant, one of my favourite Eagles.  He was nice enough to sign a picture for me, chat about the game from the night before and even spend some time swapping stories about our respective experiences in Quebec City and Montreal.  Me being thrilled at this chance encounter is a massive understatement:

Me and Eagle Jason Avant

Philadelphia… we’ve know each other a while, but you keep managing to surprise me in the greatest ways.

Beer experiences in Prague

Drinking beer in Prague is a true pleasure.  Great beer is everywhere; you don’t have to seek it out.  Over the course of two weeks I didn’t have a single bad beer or ever spend more than $2 Canadian for a beer in a bar.    These are a few of my favourite beer-related experiences in Prague – the bars, the delicious traditional Czech snacks, and of course, the beers themselves.

First beer in Prague:  After getting settled into our apartment on the first day, we made our way for a much needed meal at Svejk Restaurant U Karla.  We picked this location for the ease of gluten-free eating for my wife for the first night.  A few minutes after sitting down, I got acquainted with my first Pilsner Urquell:

First beer in Prague

What went well with my second beer in Prague?  My first pork knee.  Czechs know how to eat:

Pork knee

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Back to Philadelphia

Philadelphia is the place I’ve traveled to more than anywhere else aside from Toronto.  The combination of previously working for a company based just outside Philly, my irrational love of the Eagles and a strange confluence of conferences in Philadelphia has me traveling there again at the end of this month.  I never get tired of going back.  In fact, I love it so much, I’m adding the better part of two days onto the start of the work part of the trip for some vacation.

Philadelphia a truly great city.  It’s a bit blue collar.  It has an underdog complex.  It is as far from pretentious as a city could be.  It’s honest, a bit gritty and doesn’t take itself too seriously.  If Philadelphia was a person, it would be that neighbour who helps you build a deck, loans you a few bucks to get you out of trouble without asking any questions, and calls you on it when you’re being an idiot.  Anthony Bourdain might have best summed it up about Philly when he said that it’s a “city with a low tolerance for bulls**t and plenty of heart.”

What do I have planned for this trip?  A Flyers game, a foodie visit to South Philly, touring and photographing some public art, at least one cheesesteak (who’s kidding who – it’ll be more than that), a long overdue trip to the Philadelphia Museum of Art and/or the Mutter Museum, watching my Eagles in a sports bar (shame they’re playing on the road that week), a stop at my favourite Philly beer store to stock up on some Yuengling to bring home, and as much more fun as I can squeeze around the work parts of the visit.  I know that by the time I get home, I’ll have eaten well, enjoyed some great laughs and have debated the Eagles offensive approach with whoever ends up sitting on bar stools next to me over the six days.  Such is Philadelphia.  Simple.  Honest.  Fun.  And with an endearing chip on its shoulder.   No wonder I love the city so much.

30 hours in Vienna: Monday

After a great first 12 waking hours in Vienna, we were ready for a mere 10 more hours in this stunning city.  Nowhere near enough time to see everything, but more than enough time to put a dent in it and have some fun in the process.

08:30 We started the day with some traditional Viennese pastries for breakfast.  We chose Kurkonditorei Oberlaa as our destination as they have something rather unique in Vienna – gluten free pastries.   My wife was in heaven as she didn’t expect to be able to try any of these delectables.  The gluten free pastries (left and top right in the pictures below) were really good.  In particular, the one on the left below was very similar to a Québécois mille-feuille.  I got one non gluten-free pastry as I had to try an apfelstrudel (bottom right below).  That and a great espresso put me in a wonderful mood to start the day.

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30 hours in Vienna: Sunday

Nothing focuses your energy quite like having only a bit more than one day in a city you’ve always wanted to see.  When we booked our trip to the Czech Republic, we decided to stay in place in Prague and do a few day trips rather than being repeatedly on the move like our last few big trips.  When we took a closer look at a map and saw Vienna a mere four hours away, we knew we had to do a quick trip into Austria to spend one night in the city of music.  So what did 30 hours in Vienna look like?  Here’s how we spent the first 12 hours after arriving just before lunch on the first Sunday in September.

12:30 Before going anywhere, we were in desperate need of a caffeine jolt.  Across from our hotel was a coffee shop whose double espresso and lovely pastry got me ready to start exploring.  With caffeine hitting our respective blood streams, we took a streetcar ride around half of the Ringstraße (ring road).  If you envision the Ringstraße as a clock, we took a trip from 12 to 6 to get near the Vienna State Opera.

13:30 On my list of things to try in Vienna was the famous Sachertorte.  Looking up from the map when we got off the streetcar, Hotel Sacher was right in front of us meaning it was time for the rich chocolate cake (with brandy!) and another double espresso.

I loved this cake.  The chocolate icing was almost fudge-like.  I could have had a second piece, but I was well into a deep caffeine and sugar buzz.  Plus, my understanding wife who can’t eat gluten may not have been so eager to sit and watch me wolf down a second slice.

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Hockey, Prague style

On a spectacular late August afternoon, in one of the world’s truly beautiful cities, I found myself among 1,000 crazy hockey fans taking in a HC Sparta pre-season match against JYP Jyväskylä from Finland.   Although I’ve given up as a diehard fan of NHL hockey (losing your team will do that to you), the enjoyment of the sport itself is deep in my Canadian DNA.  An opportunity to see my first game on the larger ice surface in another hockey-mad country was just too good a chance to pass up.

What do diehard Czech hockey fans look like?  Probably something like these good folk waiting to head into the arena:

HC Sparta diehard fans

Not only were there passionate HC Sparta fans, but a group of people traveled from Jyväskylä, Finland to watch their team, JYP play…. and they did that for a pre-season game.  They even shelled out for a private box for the game.  Looks like they had a good time:

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Falling in love with the Charles Bridge

I have always felt an affection toward bridges.  My guess is that it started when I was just old enough to walk and my Mom would take me to a bridge close to our house so I could watch cars pass on the highway below.  It’s no wonder that one of my first stops in Prague (once I got over a wee bit of jet lag) was the Charles Bridge.

When I think of Prague, “romantic” is the first word that enters my head.  Nowhere was this more tangible that along the length of one of the most famous bridges in the world.  One look and it’s pretty easy to tell why:

Charles Bridge

A chilly, damp late August night only added to the mystique of this bridge to me.  The views at anytime are stunning, but looking out toward Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral as the lights just start to come on is a special kind of magic:

View from Charles Bridge

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Pilgrimage to Plzen

You won’t see a description for a day trip to Plzen in your Frommers guide to the Czech Republic, and that’s a bloody shame.  For the beer lover, I would argue it’s almost a necessary visit.  This quaint city gave birth to beautiful thing in 1842: a beer that has stood the test of time – pilsner.

For me, the day trip to Plzen this was a true pilgrimage.  There was no way I was coming to the Czech Republic without visiting where my favourite style of beer was created.   Only a short 90 minute train ride from Prague, the Pilsner Urquell brewery is located just outside of the city centre.  When you arrive, you are greeted by the original gates of the brewery:

Gate at Pilsner Urquell

On our way into the brewery we got to see a morning delivery loading up.  Each day, the brewery delivers beer to bars in the city by horse, keeping alive a long-standing tradition.  I momentarily thought about taking the reins and making away with a few kegs of the good stuff:

Pilsner Urquell delivery into town Continue reading