Back to a coast

Our summer west coast adventure around Vancouver Island kicked off with a few days in Victoria. On account of the pandemic and a less frequent travel schedule, we both were looking forward to some time on the coast. This was my second and my wife’s first visit to this beautiful city. We had incredible luck with weather in what can be a very damp, grey and dreary climate. Our stay came during an extended heat wave and perfectly blue skies, perfect for exploring Victoria on foot. What’s a trip to Victoria without a walk around the inner harbour and a stop to gaze upon the Fairmont Empress?

Fairmont Empress hotel in Victoria, BC
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A perfect unplanned day

Anyone who tried to travel by air in the summer of 2022 in Canada will have some sort of horror story to tell. The day before our planned trip to Vancouver Island I received the dreaded text message from Air Canada with a flight cancelation for our flight the next day. In the end, we lost the first day we were scheduled to spend in Victoria, but on the positive side, we at least arrived just in advance of the airport’s rental car location closing so we could snag our car for an extra late night drive to our downtown hotel.

We woke up fresh the next morning, but quite hungry as the previous day’s delays and flight changes left us woefully little time to actually eat en route to Victoria. My wife had picked out John’s Place, a diner a block from our hotel that had an extensive list of gluten-free goodies (waffles!) and while she had done significant research on this place, I knew nothing about it…. until we walked in and I was greeted by this sign. Instantly, I knew this was a good omen for a great day ahead.

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Victoria: Two days in pictures

I really enjoyed my first visit to Victoria back in April.   It was a very picturesque city, especially under two days of blue skies and warm temperatures.    I didn’t do any formal tours or visit any museums or galleries, instead, I chose to do some urban exploring.   I gave my wandering a bit of structure by visiting some public art installations within walking distance of my downtown hotel, but outside of that, took it pretty easy for two days.  Here are some of the sights and activities from around Victoria that caught my eye over two days.

Although not in Victoria, the journey there on the ferry from Vancouver gave me gorgeous views throughout the ninety minute trip:

The water plays a key part in the ambiance of Victoria.  This is the inner harbour with the city’s downtown on the other side:

Inner Harbour, Victoria

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Touring Victoria’s public art

Victoria has a very compact and walkable downtown.  Using the incredibly helpful Public Art Inventory website, I created a walking tour of Victoria that would take me past many of the public art installations around the centre of the city.    The travel gods were also nice enough to give me two perfectly sunny days for my urban exploring.   Map in hand, I started off close to my hotel near Victoria’s Chinatown.  The first piece that caught my eye was the striking “Red Dragon” by Ping Tsing at the corner of Pandora and Government.

Red Dragon by Ping Tsing

About a block and a half north on Government just outside the Chinatown gates was “Dragon Dance” by Robert Amos.   This mural was painted by children from the Chinese Public School and commemorated the 150th anniversary of Victoria’s Chinatown – the oldest Chinatown in Canada.

Dragon Dance by Robert Amos

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Mile Zero

I usually write about my trips and experiences somewhat sequentially once I return home. But for one experience, I’m making an exception.  I’m writing the bulk of this sitting in the lobby of the Fairmont in Victoria, but truth be told, I know I won’t finish writing it sitting here.  I’m already blinking rapidly to keep the tears at bay, and I don’t need a lobby of cruise ship passengers wondering why there’s a guy over in the corner crying into his iPad.

On this last day in Victoria, I headed out for a morning of urban and public art exploring.  One of the last pieces of art on my walk was the sculpture of Terry Fox.  It’s located at mile zero, the end of the Trans-Canada Highway. In a country like Canada, that in and of itself would be something to visit. But as I looked at the sculpture of Terry Fox I started to think about his Marathon of Hope and what it would have been like for him to make it to his point. Mile Zero.  The entire way across Canada.

Terry Fox statue

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Back from British Columbia

Having just returned from a bit more than a week on Canada’s west coast, I can say something very assuredly:  this trip did nothing to diminish my desire to someday live near the Pacific Ocean.  My mixed work and pleasure trip was made a wee bit sweeter knowing there were some snow flurries back home in Halifax while I was away. It wasn’t that warm in Vancouver or Victoria, but I never once wondered if I needed to put gloves on to go out.  After this past winter, I’m considering that a wonderful eight day gift from the travel weather gods.

This being my second time in Vancouver, I dug a little deeper into the city including a very early morning hike around the Stanley Park seawall, some urban exploring for public art, generous west coast craft beer tastings including visiting four craft breweries, and a Saturday evening Whitecaps FC soccer match. Those experiences were so much fun that I can even forgive the Canucks for choking their way out of a game seven match up with the Flames for which I had a ticket.

I left Vancouver by ferry to see Victoria and to explore a bit further afield on Vancouver Island.  Victoria was full bloom in colour and I realized that I had almost forgotten what flowers and green grass looked like.  A few nice street meals, some more craft beer sampling (sense a trend?) and a healthy dose of general exploring gave me a nice taste of Victoria.  A day long road trip around the southern part of Vancouver Island was a mix of small town visits, west coast beach hikes and a memorable meal at the Sooke Harbour House with a clear view of the snow capped Olympic Mountains across the Juan de Fuca Strait in Washington State.

I had a lovely time in British Columbia.  There were some very special and unexpected moments that reminded me that many times it’s the little “experiences within the experience” that make a trip memorable.  I’m looking forward to writing about this trip and a few of those moments over the coming weeks.

Left coast dreaming

It’s been a long, brutal winter out here on the east coast. If the torture of the weather wasn’t enough, every once in a while I’d sneak a peek at the weather forecasts for Vancouver and Victoria. It’s something everyone does in Canada starting in February once you’ve seen the first news report on the CBC of flowers blooming on the west coast.. it’s a bit of an annual self flogging ritual.  You repeatedly ask yourself “How am I navigating iced up sidewalks in a parka while someone is jogging on a beach in a t-shirt and shorts somewhere else in my country?”

In a few days, I’ll be living out the second best alternative to my dream of one day moving to British Columbia to escape winter forever. I’m heading out west for a week: partly for work, partly for leisure. A good chunk of this upcoming trip will be a return visit to Vancouver, a city I fell in love with on a trip there a couple of years back.   I’m hoping this time I’ll get to the top of Grosse Mountain on a clear day or evening, do a long hike around and through Stanley Park, and dig a bit deeper into the city’s public art around the downtown. Add to that a Whitecaps soccer match, some craft brewery hopping and a cross section of international eating (including a return visit to La Taqueria for the best tacos I’ve ever had)… that should fill up the time in Vancouver pretty well.

Inukshuk at English Bay

I’m then going to head a bit further west, taking a ferry to Victoria to spend a couple of days in and around the city. I’ve booked a rental car for a one day road trip around the southern end of Vancouver Island and plan to visit the totems in Duncan, the large murals in Chemainus, and the coastal beaches south of Port Renfrew. On the way back to Victoria will be a highly anticipated meal at the world renowned Sooke Harbour House.

A week on the west coast should fix me up pretty well. There’s even an outside chance that all the snow will be melted in Halifax by the time I return home.